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If they were cheaper than sharpening, I’d buy new ones. If they were more expensive than sharpening, I’d get them sharpened, but I’m just a crazy person.

You mean you just throw blunt blades and don’t normally have them resharpened?

Hard wax oil might be best if you can get all the finish off, if you can’t maybe just use a wax, does depend on what sort of look you are after and how tough you need it to be

Could be… Lack of cleaning of the abrasive (get a cleaning block) Lack of extraction Gummy wood (what are you sanding?) Poor abrasive (I use abranet)

Afraid “it depends” is the correct answer. You can usually make things much thinner than they often are and they will be strong enough, but then it looks bad, which is a major factor

By modern, I think more like this… Though that’s not cast iron, but this is… Not nearly as exciting as the old ways and it’s crushingly disappointing the first time you go to a forge and find it’s not manned by a team of dwarves swigging from steins and singing along to the hammer blows

I think we work at different ends of an industry and most definitely different centuries.

The lower your cabinet’s centre of mass compared to the French cleat is, the more the load is pulling the cleat down/tighter. The higher it is the more it is trying to rotate and tear it out the wall. You’d not put it at the bottom right? That’d be silly. You’d move it up, the further up the...

Yep, I’m curious too! If it was a few mm across it’d be obvious grain boundary, but on that scale? I like old castings for aesthetic purposes, but if I got one of the quality they are at work I’d probably never speak to that supplier again.

Sand! It’s a rubbish conductor and cooling a thick part quickly is hard… though fast and slow is all relative, what you also want is even cooling so all the part shrinks at the same rate and that’s as much to do with the material around the part as it is with the design of the part itself, the...

Rapid cooling causes lots of small crystals, slow cooling favours formation of larger crystals. If those are crystal boundaries, they are big, so slow cooling. If I was looking down a microscope at it, I’d be sure what it is, just never seen that pattern at that size

Looks like dendritic pattern, not seen one quite like that before (though they are all unique) is it a flat machined surface or has it been scraped?

TiN can be deposited straight onto steel and iron and it bonds really well, hence cutting tools use it for improved wear resistance. Nickel has to be deposited onto a copper layer and that doesn’t stick nearly so well, also being soft they wear through very easily too, but you can do it at home...

Everyone should wear hoodies, they’re multi-purpose, keeping you warm and making you cool, both at the same time.

If it doesn’t corrode… it’s not cast iron. Not sure how you are deciding what “quality” is, but I think Record have been made in China for a good few years now, not that makes any intrinsic difference to quality. I’ve noticed all my cast iron machines get rust when I don’t look after them

Polythene will trap condensation near your metal and resist letting it out if your desiccant can’t grab all the water and do it fast, then you will have the same or worse problems. The mistake people make with desiccants is not understanding that they’re there to grab the last residual water in...

I’ve no objection to people charging a fortune for something a bit useless, it keeps people employed and removes money from people who clearly don’t need it and makes it available to those that might.

Looks like an adjustable stop to me. Don’t the instructions tell you?

A hard wax oil would be one option, or liberon finishing oil etc… I think this was shellac then wax, but ebony and walnut are closed grain so more suitable for that.

Epoxy would do that, but it’s a bit of a cheap look. Oil onto wenge would be better and that brass will tarnish but if you want a material not to tarnish, brass isn’t it, plastic coating works but then you’re back to shiny overcoats