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Had a Rover once, imported it from a place called “the Midlands” atrocious quality

Yep, used a piece of 40x40 I think. It was Rexroth (which is the super premium option) but only as it was free. Over a short length and for home uses most easily available makes will be fine

Am, now I’m with you. Design for your process. You have all the right tools to make them quick, for things like that I’d incorporate a feature that enabled you to hold the workpiece inside the cutting perimeter, like a few holes you can put some sub-flush screws in, then you can face and cut...

I heard that was to be easier to paint, I can’t see why brown is easier to cover than green either Aidan

Nope, still wrong. A box beam is reliant on the edges of the panels being joined together to reinforce the structure. A torsion box relies on the faces being joined together for its strength. Faces, not edges.

If you want a fast, hard, durable finish on ply, it’s varnish. Rustins quick drying (from toolstation) does really well and can be applied in just a few hours Aidan

All those approaches may work, but.... what are they?! I’m often surprised how well my thicknesser does on some quite tricky grain (when it’s sharp), when it makes a mess I need to remember to sharpen the blades more Aidan

That looks good, how much play do you get at the far end? Is there a big advantage over using rail dog and dropping onto the table when needed? Aidan

Pedantic is not the word, it’s wrong, air doesn’t tie adjacent sides together.

I think I would struggle to make a short hinge that held perfect registration on the end of a lever 1.2m long, in fact I wouldn’t try. If it’s out by, say 1mm it’s no use? That’s an angular accuracy of less than 1/20 of a degree. Yet you’d be sitting it on an array of holes that should give...

If you want a really light floaty desk, take your inspiration from bridges they have a thin and stiff deck (that has to accommodate a lot of movement) and little supporting structure. There are lots of examples if you go to Pinterest etc... The difference between a huge bridge and a desk is...

MRMDF is what you want. Though I have some 3mm Medite standard MDF and that’s got a really nice edge finish despite not being the MR variety, though I wonder if that’s because it’s thin? Aidan

That would be a box beam. If you then installed a structure inside to prevent the sides moving towards or apart from each other, then you’d have a torsion box.

Only if you had something between the walls of said box to inhibit them moving together or apart under load, at which point it’s not a very good box! :)

One trick to get a mortice dead centre is to cut it from both sides Aidan

I can’t see that working too well. Yes the carbon is good in tension, but its second moment of area is still very small. Maybe do a scale drawing or computer model and you’ll see how weird it’ll look. You could easily make the top 75mm thick with a large chamfer and it’ll take the load just...

However, you can turn that to an advantage with black spray paint and gilt cream you can make some stunning effects Aidan

It’s probably worth a footnote that I’d only gotten rid of my table saw as I have a decent bandsaw now. It does very much come down to what you are making Aidan

Insulation isn’t magic, it can’t make things hot or cold, it just slows the rate of change of temperature. The ground is at a relatively constant temperature if you go down a bit, but you do get frost on top of it. A shed’s internal temperature will mostly be determined by the air temperature...

Thank you! Yes, it’s quite a look