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Some, depending what you put through it, like a planer head you have to have a defect all the way around for it to stop working on that line, so that’s where a big diameter helps and an abrasive cleaner stick. Sanding/scraping down an entire table’s worth of veneer by hand, would not be my idea...

If those are like the Barlow Tyrie ones they’re solid sections finger jointed together, probably done with a pattern or a CNC

Yes, the UK gets cold and regularly drops below zero in winter... we still get common furniture beetle. So either they’re migrating in with the geese each spring or... they’re rather more hardy than you think. 20 Celsius is a not particularly hot living temperature and the country will hold...

If that worked, wouldn’t you not get woodworm in the UK as pretty much the entire country gets one frost a year? I’d welcome anyone to try leaving their furniture outside in winter for a fortnight, do let us know how it goes

It never ceases to amaze me the number of people who visit UKWorkshop and seem to think every country on earth is the same. From the guy who confidently dispensed electrical advice but had never seen a 13A socket in his life to the idea that you’d leave furniture outside to treat it for...

The knuckles are slightly different, there may be some other slight differences in dimensions. Ian’s old design I don’t think is as good as his new one, which might explain why it’s the old one...

Ian Hawthorn’s similar but slightly different

It’s not just about the numbers, the style comes into it too Here’s a small box with 18mm sides plus the veneer... I think the sides are only just on the thick side, it works for this format.

If you want 25mm each on the outside, you want each piece 50mm longer than the outside length of the side. If you want 25mm on the inside, your material needs to be 50mm wider plus the thickness of the thing it’s covering. I usually charge for such calculations, but that one’s on the house ;).

Dammit, you got there before me!

See, what you want isn’t a spreadsheet, it’s a pencil and a piece of paper. Sadly you might quickly see that an Incra cut joint just can’t look as good as a handmade one (or a WoodRat cutter one at a pinch) Leave enough material somehow for your hinges and lock etc... the rest is variable...

Sanding sealer and wax works

I’d expect that. Tannins from the oak are renowned for making steel rust. But a screw with a passivated coating in a hole is rarely inspected for minor surface corrosion, as nobody cares.

Can it... no, as you can see they’ve already rogered it royally. Could you repair it? Maybe with a lot of work Aidan

It’ll slow down the process, but won’t stop it. However for it to happen fast you need it to be quite wet, in drier timber you can get away with steel screws in oak so indoors with dry wood you’ll be fine with steel screws. Outdoors I’d really go stainless as brass is mechanically a bit naff Aidan

It could work, but you’d probably want track top and bottom (which will fight each other if you don’t get them just right) and three tracks, which will get deep. A long time ago they made wardrobes with tambour doors that went over the top and down the back, for exactly this problem. Not a...

Metal bush with a plastic flex moving past it, so that if it abrades the metal can help create a short. I have a feeling there’s a reason rubber gets used. Aidan

That’d be paint ;)

Metalwork teacher had a sense of humour! Did he ask you to get sparks for the grinder too?

They’re quite nice. I’d have used different hinges, but hey... I’d say £1000 each would be a fair price. You could get more I’m sure, less might be ripping yourself off, but you are of course free to do that to your heart’s content Someone offered me £100 for my coffee table once, I said £5k...