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There isn’t a single answer to the both end/face grain question other than “best avoided”. It might be all right if it’s all uniformly dry and can move a little without causing problems elsewhere

Danish oil on ash goes very yellow A faster and non-yellowing approach is sanding sealer then wax, you can control the gloss level and it’s done in a few hours

L-bracket?

Rough cut via a scroll saw, bandsaw etc.., then profile sand with a bearing guided drum. I’d modify the designs to only have large inside corners so the drum can do it all in one pass

For the pennies they cost, totally worth it. Whichever twonk originally did our porch cut the mortar away too little so cut the lead short to fit, don’t do that. I do agree that lead over polycarbonate… seems like shaved truffle over a Asda value sausage

Yup, load distributed over three cylinders not one and removes the alignment issue of the bracket having to be in/out from the wall by the pitch of the screw thread, terrible design, no wonder it’s hard to buy them… but I get the impression a mind is rather made up

That’s a nicely done piece. Gloss finishes on this kind of thing are rather brash in my view and sprayed lacquer is gloopy and the domain of mass produced trinket boxes from the Far East. With sycamore and mahogany just sanding sealer and wax can give you a durable and fast finish you can...

Mineral oil is very cheap and goes a long way, I did about 50 boards of various sizes with about 400ml of it, so I have 4600ml left, just sitting there… It dries/soaks in very slowly and isn’t nice and shiny, but you could literally eat the stuff so no risk with it, vegan friendly which beeswax...

Sanding with a flat block or alternatively sticking the paper to a sheet of glass, is how people have been finishing things like this for the last hundred years or so, however if you think it doesn’t work, don’t try it. I do it all the time, guess I’m just lucky.

The pine will sand faster than the teak, so easy to make a dent. Ideally seal the pine first so you don’t get dark dust in the pores of the light wood, then wrap your paper around something stiff like a chunk of oak or bit of steel. Looks like you also have some tear out on the pine which you...

However you like, glue is a common method but friction fit works too

That’s a very small flush hinge and they aren’t a good option for just about anything. Butt hinges can be bought very cheap but they’re horrid quality. If you’re practicing then a very economical thing to be able to do for the future is a pin hinge with an inset lid (sat between the sides and...

Use of any tool means it’s no longer handmade, so that’d be everything other than a clay pot dug out the ground and formed by hand, using a stick to dig with, no longer hand made... So it’s a meaningless statement from the same people who bring you “military grade”, “industrial spec” and...

Masking tape

I think you’re confusing what a CE means (though now it’s a UKCA for sale inside the UK). It should mean that the product is safe and complies to the necessary standards relevant to that product. For many things it’s self-certified, so you could just print a label and do nothing more, that’d...

Quite often an un-branded item is almost identical to a more expensive, branded one, but not always. I leave batteries to charge in the garage, overnight etc… if one were to fail dangerous I’d not know about it till too late. For that reason I pay 2 to 3 times the price for Makita batteries and...

I have a super-special approach… I fix things when it’s worth fixing and not when it isn’t. Which I’m guessing is what people have always done.

One approach may be to change material, the other may be to change your design to best suit your available tools. Is the fuzzy finish coming off the router or the lathe? If the former I’d suggest better tooling and cut speed

Abranet, yes it’s expensive but it lasts and lasts and lasts

I don’t know if this is true anymore, but last time I was buying OSB only the 18mm was rated as waterproof