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“Superglue” is a bit of a catch all term for literally a few thousand different recipes of cyanoacrylate adhesive. They can be tweaked to stick a huge variety of things together in very challenging conditions. I’m not aware of many types specifically made for wood, there are better options in...

Do you have a diagram for that? I’m still none the wiser, but if I had my blades set higher than the table I’d expect the start and end of the cut to snipe as the cut would be above the reference plane.

I’ve never understood the idea of having the blade above the out-feed table personally, I set mine flush and never get this problem.

Nice design. I’d avoid having to make the bends take the majority of the load at all. Make a truss, probably a triangle out of box steel and anchor that to the wall so the bed then sits on top, adjust the base so it’s deep enough to cover the truss so it’s still floating. The ladder is then only...

I’d think not, unless you are aiming for several mm of veneer. How much load are you putting on it? If it’s taking enough that you are concerned about it breaking, it’s probably the wrong thing to use, but it’s still a pretty strong thing, but I’d not make a cantilever chair frame that way, for...

Yep, that’s a curved blade for you. Depends what you’re making, rough stuff you’ll never notice the error, fine things you will never be free from it.

I’d avoid that sloping roof by stopping the shelves short or using a trim to cover the front, as that roof line will be inconsistent and moves a bit too. If you’re using sheet material then housing joints would be my choice

Or plywood

And that’s absolutely true, the part you are missing is the relativity. Long grain joints are strong, in fact they’re usually stonger than the wood. End grain joints are weak, in that they’re weaker than the wood.

It’s not widely held!

That’s not a myth, that’s a lack of understanding

There’s no myth. You normally don’t glue endgrain to endgrain as a continuous piece of wood is better. You do glue edge to edge as the glue is usually as strong as the wood, so you have not created a weakness. To describe that as a myth would be like describing the myth that everyone should eat...

Use ring-shank nails if you want them to stay put well. At least one coat on cladding before it goes up or you get gaps.

Oh, and use an epoxy of some sort, that’ll do it, doesn’t need to be anything special, rough up the nut to help it grip

Inserts are ok, but the nut is stronger if you install it in what they call a “pull-through” configuration so that the load pulls the nut into the substrate not out of it. From the sound of what you are doing the nut/insert will be pushed in under load so that’s good, but any sideways movement...

If Axminster is so expensive now, why don’t people buy from the retailer who is much cheaper and now owns the entire market as they undercut everyone else?

Incapable of listening to others, ignores any fact that didn’t support his own argument and rejected anything new on principle…. I really don’t see where you are drawing any parallels?

Buy an old stool, throw the bits you don’t want

Axminster’s un-competitive prices are why they used to be a chain of large units across the UK and now they’re just one small shop in Axminster high street, no wait…

Alloy is a much used term, I’m struggling to think of any metal used that isn’t an alloy to some degree except for some high purity platings. Pure aluminium is funny stuff, you’re unlikely to come across it outside a lab as it’s utterly useless, very soft compared to even the softest available...