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Excellent stuff thanks for taking and posting the pics Cheers Jon

You would only need 1 steel joist down the middle and a support leg and then you brace to the sides with 8x2's I did it this way in my workshop and the main span is about 10metres its very strong and we have had cast iron saws and planers up there along with a load of timber. This is a pic of of...

Can't quite picture exactly what your intending a pic would help. I've found a fein multimaster is the best tool to use for splicing windows and it would be worth looking into epoxy repair systems if you've a lot to do. Cheers Jon

Do you have a link to the product you used Roger I've never come across it before? Cheers Jon

I don't think you need any I haven't got any on mine . Cheers Jon

One of the smaller stoves in this range should be suitable http://www.thehotspot.co.uk/Products/Re ... Stoves.asp Cheers Jon

I've thought about selling it a few times but I reckon it will come in handy one day. Cheers Jon

I prefer doms for Carcases myself I find it quicker than the biscuit jointer and the pins give you good alignment of parts. Cheers Jon

I haven't used mine for about 10 years but it was quite capable . Might dust it off and give it a go again. Cheers Jon

If you are just cleaning up edges that you have machine planed then the jack will be long enough and for 4-5ft boards It should be fine to joint boards from scratch any longer and I think you will need a longer plane. Worth shopping round for a deal my local tool shop gives me about 15 or 20 %...

Another one to consider is the veritas low angle jointer which is a tad cheaper but can't be used for shooting although it has a few extra features over the lie nielsen model. If you are just fine tuning machine planed edges I find a low angle jack more than adequate for this task with the...

I think I need one too. I wouldn't want anyone knicking my designs so I will get one direct from the states? Cheers Jon

I mainly call myself a furniture designer maker but get called most of the options by customers. Sometimes it is advantageous to call yourself a joiner or cabinet maker depending on the job your going for as the customer recognises these terms more. Cheers Jon

Thanks Roger and Greedo. Roger the walnut was sprayed with Morrells A/C lacquer http://www.morrells.co.uk/products/wood/17 if you look at the link I use the ones with the 440 code but they are all pretty much the same. Spray setup is a Fuji q4 with a 1.4mm nozzle setup and the lacquer sprayed...

I usually use the warm lights but its down to personal taste as to which one to use. The light is quite good from the strips and is evenly distributed. I usually put them in a diffuser routed into the bottom of the wall unit as seen in the pic which is available from hafele. Cheers Jon

Not bad :D Cheers Jon

I don't think it will be a problem. I have used moisture resistant mdf and a fully waterproof glue and there's only a toilet and sink in there so moisture humidity levels shouldn't be vey high Yes the back is veneered as well the panels will warp if you don't do it Cheers Jon

Been fitting this today the bottom panel needs adjusting slightly for the Plummer to finish off. The doors are on click to open hardware and the parquet floor was done last year by myself I made a bit of vanilla Corian up into the worktop Thanks for looking Cheers Jon

Hi chippy the Iamello connectors work well. Best to use a bit of epoxy when inserting them to keep them in place you need to be fairly accurate in your marking out though Cheers Jon

I cut about 100 today took about 20 mins and about 5 mins to set up the tennoner Cheers Jon