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Are you dealing direct with hafele steve? These ones which are made by grass in austria are about £11 plus vat if you get 10 at a time. http://www.hafele.co.uk/Hafele35a1/imag ... 7_4-12.pdf I use them if cost is an issue otherwise i use the blums. cheers jon

trend do one http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/product/1 ... utter.html cheers jon

Top work Mattty. cheers jon

I am pretty sure Mr Brad Naylor has one so maybe a PM to him may help I think they are generally well regarded but likely to be quite old. cheers jon

Ive just added to the cast iron in my shop with this beast which can do a 170mm high mitre. I am just in the process of cleaning it up but is also shown with a 120mm piece of oak tried it tonight and it cut spot on. I actually voted panel saw as this is how i would generally cut these mitres...

It depends if you have a woodburner or not stu. Offcuts are pretty much non existent in my shop in the winter. cheers Jon

For joining the worktop you need to create a mirror joint . You place the wortops to be joined about 6mm apart and clamp them down. Using a router straightedge and 10mm bit you rout through both pieces at the same time to get a perfect joint. You can hotmelt a straightedge onto the corian...

Last time i was there they had some really nice pippy oak and ripple sycamore. I must try to see carl next time as the guy who showed me round was well grumpy :D cheers jon

Looks like a nice haul. Is this stuff definately teak as i have had quite a bit of reclaimed stuff in the past and it has been 95% Iroko. cheers jon

That trade model sure is great Matty but I recently upgraded to the industrial model and it is even better :D . Cheers Jon

This is how the ones you buy at 8mm wide are made so shouldnt be a problem. cheers Jon

Hi Roger. If you are making oak windows why not just make the parting bead in oak and use up some of the off cuts. If you use these http://www.reddiseals.com/acatalog/weat ... esive.html you can rout a small groove to take them in your oak parting beads and the window will look much better...

Not that usefull I have them and never use them. One is a end stop and the other a circle cutting thingy i think. cheers jon

Just been in the workshop today and checked what I use and its the 5005/619 White Primer and very good it is too. Like Brad I find it needs a little thinning about 5-10% cheers Jon

Hi Waspwood I run a small workshop and The electric is generally about £750 a year with the bills being a bit more in the winter as we use electric heaters in the spray and drying room. The workshop is about 30ft X 60ft and the running costs for rent rates insurances electricity consumables...

Nice looking joint. In production I dont think anyone would be mucking around with chopsaws and fitting by hand. Its more likely a system like this would be used http://www.hoffmann-usa.com/htm/beaded_ ... o_nleh.htm . I find the way of doing it linked above adequate for my needs but obviously...

Looks great Russ. I tried spraying Farrow and Ball once never again. Cheers Jon

Hi Leverb there are a few other places you could try depending where in lincs you are I am near Boston. Stuart Somerscales in Keelby near Grimsby has large stocks of most hardwoods and are competetively priced and worth a visit and in my opinion have the best stocks and prices in the...

With the spiral ducting i have the bends and tee sections etc fit inside the ducting so i assume the straights are made to the nominal dimensions and the bends etc reduced slightly to fit inside. I dont know about the flexible stuff but 100mm and 150mm flexible piping slips over 100 and 150mm...

The 0.25 difference through the thicknesser could be caused by a few factors. The difference between either side of the bed could be 0.25mm The piece being planed could have been made higher by being caught under some chips. Some snipe on the ends is altering measurements etc. I am pretty sure...