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The Diamond is a good quality British made fretsaw manufactured by the late Doug Woodward, unfortunately I don't think he ever did a proper printed manual for the saw, when purchased it arrived with some typed sheets containing the basic working information. I have copies in my workshop which I...

Agree fully with Geoff and Chris. If you want it for doing general woodwork for cutting curves etc then they would be fine but if you really want to do proper fretwork/scrollsaw work then look for a quality 2nd hand decent saw.

I don't want to be a killjoy but I have to say that although WD40 is an excellent and very useful product the one thing that it is not very good at is lubrication! The clue is in the name of the product, the WD part stands for Water Dispersal which is essentially what it does best, for proper...

The quick tension lever is essential for me, my last piece of work had over 130 internal cuts, I don't think I would even attempt it without a quick tension release, for example on my Diamond fretsaw I would have to tighten a knurled knob on every blade change and after about 5 changes your...

Scott' the quick clamp is expensive for what it is and Hegner are well-known for the high prices they charge however you only pay the money for it once and once you use it on your saw you will never need to use the standard clamp on the top again and you will never want to be without it. I had...

Tilting table is useful for bevel sawing, I use it occasionally for relief cut-outs in fretwork, the process was originally called antofret after the Italian priest Rev Antonini who originated the process but as Geoff says you only need a small tilt. I would be totally lost without the quick...

+1

As Claymore says thread lock might help but is the saw vibrating a lot making the bolts get loose?

You are not alone, I have a library of over 1000 printed books almost all are non fiction on many subjects, I have always liked proper books and I simply hate reading them on a screen inc desktop laptop or even tablet, The tablet is possibly the least bad of the three for readability but I find...

It may well be. I got it from a timber yard skip where they made roofing trusses.

Is anyone else here a closet Timber sniffer? I love the aroma of freshly cut timber especially European redwood and pitch pine, I can never resit giving the cut end a sniff!

I just use cheap and cheerful water based gum or paste, for plain work I just sand the pattern off with the stationary belt sander if delicate I just dampen the pattern with a small paint brush and peel it off. Never had a problem with this method.

That is really cheap for those, I am a bit concerned about buying direct from China though.

Lol Indeed it might be a bit difficult describing the smell, however one softwood I have in my woodshed smells like dogs mess when you cut it if that helps! :)

TBH I would not like to identify timber from pictures I use smell as well as sight to id timber.

I can assure you there is no need to worry about blade changing on a Hegner even with pierced cuts, it tales seconds and you can practically do it with your eyes closed!

You will absolutely love it I can tell you. For quite sometime after I had bought my Hegner I could not walk past it in the workshop without having a little go on it and even 15 years latter I still have a good feeling when I use it. First thing I would recommend you to do is make a sub table...

I have never heard of Swordfish either but they look like very robust machines, I wonder how much they cost, looks like they are British made? http://www.rjhfinishing.co.uk/design-te ... croll-saw/

Well I thought I was a scrimper but even I would not have used scrappy wood like that for such a project! FWIW I had a mate (sadly passed away now) who seeing my saw decided to make his own out of scrap metal and used an old spin-dryer motor to power it, actually worked quite well. He was 80 yrs...

Thanks for that. Is that it or do you apply any polish or anything later? :)