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The #1 thing to watch for when planing reclaimed floorboards is embedded grit (pressed in by footfall). If time allows, I would have to recommend going over them with a wire-wheel, as this will hopefully pick up the majority and will at least loosen the fibres around any grit so it does less...

I set mine to the same height and use a thin-bottomed sled with a few strips of UHMW tape on the bottom for most cross-cutting. With the table waxed as it should be there's no drag. Being able to rely on rips being perfectly square adds a lot of peace of mind.

The future is wooden my friends, whether you like it or not.

Looks great and fantastic you've used reclaimed timber. Undervaluing your first work is understandable. It's typically a function of the imposter syndrome (at least it was in my case and identified it in others) and it's important to not have that linger for longer than necessary.

I have a raspberry pi with motioneyeOS and IR camera and a small usb battery between it and the ac adapter. Could add 4G card to it for net redundancy. Not too expensive but requires a bit of time setting up. MotioneyeOS can do quite a lot like, email snapshots when there's motion, and can set...

Find it hilarious that the course next to the string line is vaguely straight.

A slight roundover or chamfer can help reduce the visual weight of a component.

Can't recommend the iTech 260s - I got a 310s from Scosarg (who graciously took it back for free) - whole host of issues, primarily the outfeed table wasn't at the right height and isn't adjustable. Other than that, some cutters appeared to be blunt (left rough streaks in the wood), rollers...

Hi - would be interested in these (though I fear I may do the same as you - buy and never use haha!)

Assuming the denizens of this forum have heard of these. Made in the US by Byrd Tool. Bought in February and arrived in June. The finish quality and blade life has sold us on a combi machine with a spiral cutter. Originally bought to thickness a lot of bone-dry burry wych elm and still on the...

Ah yep, that's definitely handy, and definitely cheaper than going for a 12" combi. More versatile for setting up if you need to thickness long lengths!

Trend one here, lightweight and tightens easy, as far as I know it's been bang on.

Ah that's a hole in my experience with them, haven't used either enough to have gotten them to the point of wearing out! I imagine the Besseys do last longer which, well, is a multiplier on their value, £20 isn't bad for a clamp that you use day in day out for decades!

Just when you think you've seen em all, there's another... No idea but thanks for sharing. I would say definitely at least 60s. The key characteristic (for looking through google images and such) would appear to be the pattern of voids in the table.

That's what gets me about them. Expensive for what they are, other brands (Rutlands ones etc) do the same for quite a bit less.

Wide eaves and guttering is particularly effective in reducing wear on cladding. Also Yacht varnish is better than any fence-product like Cuprinol, and removing objects nearby that rain can bounce off of and hit the cladding, like barrels... barbecues... that haven't been used in 6 years... I...

Boeshield T9 is our favourite, seems to stick to cast iron a bit longer than simple paste wax anyway.

I can get behind the idea of heated insoles/gloves, a vest would seem to me to be a bit egregious, where a woolly jumper would do just fine. You'll have to let us know how that vest works out x)

Would like to echo this. Compound square morticing is a standard approach to quickly morticing large mortices. Considering how long it takes to set up our morticer, for a 1" mortice I would probably just drill a 24mm hole and hand chisel the rest, unless we had 20+ to do.

Facebook marketplace is probably the best just now, gumtree is alright (bit quiet) and ebay is great for things that can be posted. Fairly safe these days from dodgy items as ebay makes returns easy (read: free)