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Look at the loads wattage rating- lighter loads are ok on a 'stock' garage spur on an extension cord, heavier ones you really have to be the ones to watch out for- and avoid that really long extension cord for anything but lighter, intermittent use lol

Most 'hobby level' electricals are fine- IF there is a good feed from the consumer unit rated for the intended purpose... (ie a 4mm or 6mm single armoured circuit from the consumer unit to the shed would be more than adequate for almost all 'hobby level' equipment...) It is just that very few...

Wouldn't hurt, especially if its an older 'add-on' on a spur- It might already be at the upper limits of 'acceptable' just at the shed/garage (plus at nearly 20 year old if I remember correctly. its had plenty of time for corrosion/insulation leakage etc to rear its ugly head, a quick check with...

Just for gits and shiggles, I ran your numbers through the AS/NZ electrical standards calculator- and this was the result (which I fully agree with...) In particular... It may have 'worked'- but in no way was it 'safe' in doing so... (note that the first 'all green' cable size for that...

LFP/LYP batteries are EXTREMELY unlikely to 'catch fire' especially from the cells themselves (they are a completely different animal to the phone/powertool/laptop etc batteries ie LiPO for phones etc versus LiFePO4 (LFP) or LiFeYPO4 (LYP)... LiPO (what most people think of when they hear...

Its not until you get up into the truly huge sizes that you see the 'undersized earth cable' start to appear with some brands (which are best avoided imho)- the 10mm^2 TPE has a 4mm^2 earth, and the 16mm^2 TPE has a 6mm^2 earth conductor (which is stupid imho- as the earth fault conditions are...

Interesting, I'd forgotten the UK undersizes its earths in a TPE- here in Australia, all three conductors in a TPE are the same size- so a 2.5mm TPE has all three are 2.5mm^2 in size... (it's been a while since I dealt with UK stuff lol) Same goes with any other size TPE/TPS- 4mm^2 has a 4mm^2...

He's a 'home handyman' not an electrician- deals with cleaning gutters and the like... (when was the last time you tested for live before changing a lightbulb???- and how- without first removing the lightbulb- which is what he was doing when he got the shock from the improperly wired base... One...

Sorta- we still use red as an unswitched active/line, white is a switched active and black as a neutral in FIXED wiring (a pet peeve of mine, which nearly killed a friend of mine)- the US uses the 'black live/white neutral' which is reversed- he was up a ladder changing a portaflood bulb and it...

Not a requirement here (yet, but likely coming) however that doesn't apply to already existing equipment (especially that is not used 'commercially')) they only have to meet the regs that applied at the time of construction (and THAT does apply in the UK currently) Considering the state of that...

Not a fan of the DOL switches- more complicated and less reliable than the older 'mechanical pull and turn' latching ones... The cheap ones in particular are VERY hit and miss regarding reliability... (normal switches are a no-no here, as you need an 'emergency stop' style "slap at it wildly"...

They really are quite simple to work on- and at least some of the wiring in there (specifically the actual power cord from the plug) looks to be VIR (Vulcanised Indian Rubber) which is extremely dangerous to still be using, and should be replaced immediately... The old wax sealed 'tin...

With these motors you really don't need the 'start button and stop button' control box (DOL)- the simple old fashioned 'latching single emergency switch/ on/off' ones work perfectly well (and are a lot more reliable) These usually have an arrow on them, like this... Look for 'latching' rather...

And can you take a clear pic of the writing on the 'metal box' sitting on the timber- that appears to be your capacitor!!! and I haven't seen that style used in decades- if it is, its probably so dried out, god only knows what value is at (and the two terminals on top are live whenever its...

I'm not seeing the 'red button' anywhere- is it on the motor itself??- because if so thats probably an old red thermal overload cutout reset button, not the off button... eg I am also seeing what might be old VIR cables in there- in which case, that REALLY should also be replaced (in pic 4...

Why??? You expect ME to fly to the US to 'check it out' at MY expense- when I have already shown that what you are pushing is far right codswallop and is in fact WRONG... Verifiably wrong... At NO point were 'hard drugs legalised'- at one point 'possession of drug PARAPHERNALIA' laws were...

Sure- I'll pop right over- if you pay the tickets... I'm not spending my money to prove YOUR claims... (claims already not backed up by publicly available statements lol) I'll make my way to Brisbane airport when you have the tickets ready...

So why exactly am I having to prove YOUR second point???? I have already shown you a direct link to a news article showing that the first is complete nonsense... (odds are could I be bothered, I would find the second equally false) You made the claim, you provide the evidence...

Any part of that half hour long audio clip in particular??? I mean a simple link to an actual statute or law will do... Or even a news article (from an organisation that DOESN'T have a 3/4 of a billion dollar judgment against it for lying lol) will do... Something like this that shows the new...

I seriously doubt this.... Got some kind of evidence of this- like you know, links to actual laws legalising hard drugs like heroin, cocaine etc??? ETA I thought this sounded like crap- and it is- the only sources saying they 'legalised' it are from Fox news and the like... What they did have...