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My old compressor had a rusted out tank (quite a bit of excitement when it blew I can tell you- they are LOUD!!!) so I used a pair of 45kg LPG 'house tanks' (quite safe as they are rated at 210PSI, my compressor tank was only rated to 150PSI, and the compressor itself these days only goes up to...

Actually- depending on the units involved- they can sometimes be 'picked up' by anyone on the same phase on the powerlines with the same brand unit if they are 'cheapies' that have no matching (ie 'press button to pair to each other) My sisters place lost her internet router after a...

Interesting- I found the original ad at 100outlets.com- and they indeed list the heatshrink labels as the part number LOL- but the Littelfuse number they have listed (and the part description ie LittelFuse Telecom Fuse- matches nothing available at the Littelfuse website... the part number...

It is definitely the heatshrink coding lol Unless your devices come in 5m rolls with no electronics inside them... 😉

Actually- quite common in offgrid houses- these are the LEDs I use here for example (they actually cost less than 'normal' 230vac ones when buying them by the box!!!) Look like 'normal' 230vac LEDs, but run on 12v to 85v AC or DC- so perfect for 12v, 24v, 48v or 72v battery banks- I got ES only...

Actually, in most cases the solar panel voltages are much higher than the mains voltages- panels can vary between 30v to nearly 100v depending on the manufacturer, and almost all installations are series or series parallel... These panels for example are over 80vdc output per panel...

There is a good reason to go roof mounts- at least with PV panels- most dust is carried within a metre of the ground, so roof mounts stay clean far longer than ground mounts For thermal, it doesn't matter that much obviously, but at ground level, you often have shading issues, where on the roof...

I'm not a fan of long sleeves since my apprentice days in the railways, we had an apprentice using a lathe, wearing our 'industry supplied' overalls- a fairly heavy fabric type like these These were OLD lathes- originally belt driven from overhead shafts, then converted to electric motors with...

The first is correct, the second with the exposed inner cables insulation would be at least a level 3 'fix ASAP' in an EICR, many would say it should be a 2 instead (fix immediately)- whoever told you that it is the 'preferred' method isn't a licenced electrician and quite frankly shouldn't be...

It does look like it doesn't it??? old and new motors from earlier post- they appear to dive into a hole into the housing At first I thought the same when you said it!!! but a closer look shows it is two red wires (seriously???) both diving into the sleeve...

It's actually not that hard- depending on the alternator involved, the enameled copper windings in the stator were only around 1mm-1.5mm wire, and they really are easy to do- cut the plastic 'liner' for each slot to size with scissors, rewind like for like (number of turns etc), fit another...

It looks like a dry electrolytic capacitor- in which case there wouldn't have been an actual fire... Just a lot of very stinky (and slightly carcinogenic!!!) smoke... They don't get hot enough to light a fire however... (and yes, electrolytics 'dry out' and gradually change their value- ten to...

Done a few (lol) motor and alternator rewinds over the years... Just a few.... (I used to actually rewind car alternators while watching movies on TV as an apprentice elec fitter for the extra $$$- my wages as a first year apprentice were under $100 a week....) A dying art these days...

It should be clarified that if the diagram from them is correct, they are NOT talking about either thermal sensing, or overload protection... They said a reset-able thermal protector (as opposed to the non resetable ones- which basically are a single use device- like a fuse but 'blows' with...

This one is easy- it's a 'kit home'- steel framed, colourbond exterior walls and roof, plasterboard inside... (my property is in bushland, in a BFZ zoning- so everything has to be 'fireproof' plus there are restrictions on things like vegetation near the house etc- but having kangaroos literally...

These are slightly different in that the actual off position doesn't break a NC contact, but physically pushes the switch armature back out of place, breaking the 'hold in ' power to the solenoid contact You could wire up a 'normal' on/off/emergency button set (which has two completely separate...

Mines still a 'work in progress- currently it is mostly used for storage of my household goods and furniture, with a single bay (and a half filled one) for 'working in' and what will eventually be my mill/lathe/tool room currently filled with my caravan (being lived in while building my house...

I found the switch concerned- its a awkward beast to draw electrically- but it is technically a MC 3P3T unit... Momentary Contact 3 poles, 3 throw ie with 2 poles NO, one NC with a ''not running' (as shown in the first post and again below), one momentary position for 'on' and another for 'off'...

Definitely not a 3 phase setup lol It is a rather unusual configuration- in the electrical trade, thats a 2xSPST NO and a SPST NC with a (latching???) coil (thats Single Pole, Single Throw, and Normally Open or Normally Closed for the various initials lol) The way it is configured seems odd...

This is one of the reasons that scammers are so interested in bank accounts- and LOTS of them... Besides the obvious use for money laundering if you have access to tens of thousands if not millions of other peoples bank accounts (through stolen database 'sales', keyloggers and social...