Search results

If you put ventilation into insulation you may as well not have the insulation......(if that's what you meant by "ventilation behind it"). It is interesting how a seemingly simple subject is a lot more complex than people think.

I'm not saying you're wrong, but no tables of mine support this approach.

If you've had the doors open you are likely to be reducing the amount of dampness in the shed rather than increasing it. There is air and thus moisture in the wall when you construct it. The OP will be sealing damp into the wall with this proposed build-up. And secondly, no vapour barrier is...

I'm content that cavities behind timber boarding need only be vented at the bottom. If it is rendered, or clad with a sheet material, then yes, it needs venting at the top too, but timber has enough air leakage, I think, to mean this isn't necessary. My empirical view only, without much evidence.

Have you got the headroom to have a purlin under the timbers? A 4x2 can only span to a little under 2m.

T&G joints get glued, and virtually eliminate squeaking. That's their point. Any MR chipboard flooring would work in your circumstances, which are absolutely bog standard.

Why does it need to be 4x2s? That's the job of 7x2s. 6x2s at a pinch.

Why are you insulating an unheated shed?

Norbord........that's a chipboard flooring, is it? Your issue is just availability of material, then, is it? OSB just isn't suitable. Marine ply is unnecessary. WBP ply is the only one from your list I'd consider......but I'd be looking for some t&g flooring ply, or a source of chipboard...

I'm not sure what is with your Imgur link, DW, but the second photo I saw was of a couple of gorillas and a couple of park rangers. Could you please describe the physical set up of the cotton mop. Is this a spinning wheel in a pillar drill or bench grinder, for instance, or is it some sort of...

What is it you're building, and which bit of it is spanning 3m?

Drop a PM to Wallace, and you'll get the advice of the most experienced machine restorer on the forum.

Seal the ends, and get it milled as soon as practical. Then store it "in stick" for a couple of years or more in a dry but ventilated place, with some heavy weights on the top. Then make furniture.

I think anyone guessing at the answer on the strength of this photo alone is bonkers.

I gave up on TPs many years ago. Expensive, unhelpful, and with a poor stock level.

Fantastic. That's a big moment in the build. When's the topping-out party?

On the contrary, I'm afraid. It's the thinner stuff that is most likely to move.

I used just PAR for probably the first 5 years or so that I worked with wood. It's a great way to learn........but one of the things you quickly learn is that PAR timber can still be all over the place (cupped, in wind, bowed etc), and that two pieces purporting to be the same aren't actually...

We've 7 bikes, I think. That'd be some pretty impressive stairs! :lol:

I do that around the walls of bikes sheds for security. Stainless steel EML rather than galvanised. Pointless, of course, unless you also have a steel door and high security locking system.