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Go to any glazier and ask for an off cut of 6mm to 10mm glass. They'll give it to you free or for pennies. Almost all glass is float glass these days.

Hi Gerry. I've only a minute. Have a read of the threads linked to in my signature for a detailed overview of shed building. Stud walls will take the load of any roof......it's the base you need to have strong enough to support the imposed loads.

That absolutely does not look ebonised to me. Drop a PM to MrPercySnodgrass. He's the expert furniture restorer here, I reckon.

I had Vernier calipers. Too much of a battle reading it. I had digital ones........the batteries were always dead. Now, I have a dial caliper, and it is an absolute revelation. Instantly readable to two decimal points , and 3 with a bit of effort. Cheap, reliable, and easily read: I couldn't ask...

Yep. That's my number one priority in a workshop, I reckon: a solid bench in a fixed position.

Yes, but heavier on the oil and lighter on the varnish than my mix, as I understand it. Interesting. I thought it was a multi-oil mix like Osmo, but mainly based on Tung oil.

Sandpaper. No need to try to get them shiny all over, but if you have some superficial marks you want to be rid of, then a little light sanding will do the trick.

They don't need to be good. Any old thing will do. Be aware that the finish will be less glossy than varnish applied in the normal way, so if you want Satin, then Gloss might be best, and if you want Matt, then go for Satin. You can use old tins of varnish with a dried up crust if you've got...

I think the simplest finish to get right is a wiping varnish. Mix 1/3rd spirit-based varnish, 1/3rd white spirit, one third oil (Tung Oil or Finishing Oil or Danish Oil or Linseed Oil.....in that order of preference). Slap it on with a brush, then wipe it off after 10 minutes max (it mustn't go...

Daniel le Bruce, perhaps? :)

Really? Are you sure. It will be very orange in a few weeks time if you do that.

Decent price for one done up like this. You can get them for around £30 but be faced with an hour of de-rusting, cleaning up, flattening, sharpening and so on. Fine if you know what you're doing, but you've probably made the right decision in going for something that's already in reasonable nick.

Fun little mixture of etymology, there. A journeyman isn't someone on a journey....it's from journee (no accents on this keyboard) meaning day, so it was someone picking up day jobs, or being paid on a day rate rather than a salary or piecework. So you were quite lucky to find a journeyman on a...

Hmmm...that's horrible. Wood-on-wood with a piece of plastic between. I'm really not sure what that is supposed to achieve. Don't screw through a DPC. Use galv MS straps to hold the plate down.

Yep, that's fine Ed. The gables hold the ridge up (they're tied at the bottom, so can't spread), and the ridge holds the remainder of the rafters up.

That's a plane, not a planer. A planer is a machine, or a person who is planing. And yeah, that looks a lovely plane. The key skill with planing is getting it properly sharp. Everything else is secondary. So even as you practise planing with your new piece of kit, practise sharpening.

:roll: :roll: Ever wondered why you run into such hostility with your posts, Tom?

Fascinating. I'd never heard of anything like this. Love how he used the edge of the tool to sight for flatness, even though the tool edge isn't straight.

User manuals? No, no, don't tell me........give me a minute............I'm sure I've heard of them.......

Try to fit the fan opposite from an air inlet. So if the fan is high on the north wall, have a vent low on the south wall, if possible. This will draw the moving air through more of the workshop, and help prevent condensation and rust.