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Superb!! =D> =D>

I've a pretty simple route to vent/ drain the rebates:

Oh, I see. That would rely just on the silicon, and I'm never going to be happy with that, especially in the middle of a howling gale.

You mean like a lantern? The opening is only about 600x800, unfortunately. If I had my time over........

I was planning on just having a chain to hold the casement in the open position, say at about 120 degrees. I doubt I'd use oak because of the difficulty in finishing it. I've never used iroko, but I'm open to trying. The glazing will be 6mm toughened glass, I assume.

I need some input on the design for my rooflight, if you wouldn't mind. There is an existing upstand, and I need to plonk some joinery on top of this. The rooflight also provides roof access, and I am proposing using cranked hinges on one of the long sides. I am not sure whether to do an...

There are no good answers, I'm afraid. One of the reasons I always advocate a plinth.

That's an off-the-shelf item in my local timber merchant. The timber I mean, not the cutter.

There's a subtlety here. One form of asymptomatic is pre-symptomatic, and if you are pre-symptomatic (ie infected but showing no symptoms yet), then 100% this is one of the deadliest things about this virus. I caught it from a friend who had no symptoms, and passed it on to my wife before I had...

One of the things I'd like to do is to contain the fire in a steel tray, which could be moved about for the convenience of loading and lighting it, and pushed out of the way at the back if cooking directly on the floor of the oven. I can't see why that wouldn't work. Can anyone see a flaw? I...

Where? Under a floor?

You need a big sheet of brown paper, and a body-builder from the London Borough of Tower Hamets (Bow, to be precise) to do it for you. When he has finished, you'll be able to send a text to your friends saying "Bow he-man wraps Noddy" ......Is this the real life, is this just fantasy....? :lol...

No, they're cheap and effective. Buy some cleaner when you buy the foam, and use it now and then. Close everything down properly overnight. Pull the wedges out when the foam has set, and spray into the gaps they leave. You learn not to get foam on the wedges!

The wedges space the insulation off the timbers. They can work to hold it at the correct depth, but it's a fiddle, and just easier with a few nails.

Yeah, I've got one which looked just like that until I made my own handles. It's just like any other number 4 except it doesn't have a frog adjustment screw, and it has a plastic depth adjuster knob. Works perfectly well.

I usually specify that the PIR be cut 10mm undersize, and spray foam applied all round. The nails are only a temporary support for the insulation whilst the foam goes off, because after that they are glued in place. The only downside of this is that builders can cheat, and just put a bead of...

Don't put membranes in suspended floors. They're not necessary, and they are a potential trap for spilled liquids. Knock a cup of tea over and it will sit on top of your membrane for the next few decades.

Yep, it's fine for both. It's very important to get the wall build up right. Have a look at the threads in my signature. You need a vapour barrier on the inside of the insulation, and OSB does that job nicely, as well as being the sheathing board which stiffens up the structure and stops it...

Great ideas. Thanks Adrian. Did you have a separate place for smoking, or was it just the oven?

Now you're talking!!