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That'll survive 3 or 4 years of being left out in the sun and rain. I wouldn't worry about it for a second.

As I understand it, the link between a yard and a metre was only defined in 1959. If that is so then you are overstating things somewhat.

Sorry. :)

They don't.

That's a strength grading system, and irrelevant to your needs unless you have a roof right on the the limits of its span sizes. Just buy the timber on size.

Is it really that important? It doesn't matter if the structure gets wet, so long as you can keep you tools dry. The structure will go up in a matter of days, and you can work in a semi-sheltered way under your new roof.

Dunno. They're tested for their BBA Certificates, and it's at that point that their useages are set in stone. It's not impossible that Housewrap would be fine on a roof (I suspect it isn't robust enough to cope with the wear of roofer's boots), but the manufacturer wanted it to be wall-only, as...

Richard, do you ever send photos of your reproductions to the museums involved? If so, do you generally get a response? I'd be surprised if some of them didn't ask you to make a copy for them.

Excellent. Chunky, though. As it's a gimmick, , you could put a sheet of glass on top for the table top, perhaps.

Harsh, but fair. Millimetres, of course, is what we should all be using.

You can use roofing membrane for the walls (but you can't use the wall membranes for a roof). There are always half-rolls etc on Ebay, and you can save quite a lot of money that way. You just staple it in place initially, and then the counterbattens hold it permanently.

Ooooh, didn't know that. But hang on, chemical anchors are all about resisting tension rather than compression.......

Is it? If the epoxy formed a "handle" through the hole in the brass ring, would it not be about the cross-sectional area of that piece of epoxy, and the strength of its attachment to the remainder of of epoxy?

Flashing serves the function of making the junction between a roof and a wall (in this case) watertight. However, if that junction is in a location which doesn't ever get wet, then it isn't necessary. If you make the lean-to roof such that the top edge is high up under the eaves of the house...

It's right there, alongside the cutting edge of his wood chisels...... :)

I reckon you could achieve the same grip by drilling a hole though the bar, couldn't you? That might be easier for most people rather than trying to cut a thread.

You're an incomplete philistine, then. So which bit is missing? :)

:) Time to a couple of fasting days a week.. :)

That really is a great example of stuff that should be saleable here on the forum. What sort of crazy rules mean we don't get a chance to buy this sort of stuff directly, but instead have to go off to a public auction site?

The screw openers that I am familiar with work only for rooflights. Just think very carefully if it is the right piece of kit for a (vertical) window, because it will need the round eye and the screw action to be oriented rather differently compared with a fitting for a rooflight.