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I think you may have to do this however you cut them. Floppy stuff and spinning blades isn't a great combination.

:) Points per inch.

This is surplus to requirements. It is a brass backed re-handled saw with 16PPI (rip cut), sharpened. To make it very clear, this is a restored old saw (make unknown), not a new saw. It's a little beauty, cuts really nicely, but I've got another virtually identical. £50 inc p&p (UK mainland...

Do you not have a bench now?

I can't argue with anything else you posted, but I'm not sure this, above, is the whole story. If you stuck a 4HP motor on my bandsaw, it wouldn't improve it much. The limiting factor on mine is the weakness of the bodywork, and thus how much tension can be put on the blade. (OK, the table...

Definitely. Unless you have more space than you know what to do with, and you are planning going into production.

1/ Noggins. Not absolutely necessary (but see 2/, below), but stiffens the wall up nicely and I would certainly suggest using them. 2/ Doesn't matter, but if you do landscape, then you need noggins at the level of the long edge join. 3/ No. 4/ I line up with the outside of the studwork...

No they're not. They're selling a 6" planer. "Jointer" is USA-only. The issue with bandsaws is their strength (and power), not their size. Little ones like yours are less able to tension a bigger blade, and so are not great for ripping. If you get a more substantial one then you'll be able to...

For grooves, a plough plane or a combination plane, £50-ish on Ebay....... You don't need a table saw. I suggest that the next logical step for you would be a 1/2" router, and then make yourself a simple router table. Again, less than £100 in all (before you start buying cutters) for a really...

See if you can find a company that will supply one without a floor, and get a local builder to put down a concrete slab and a 2 or 3 brick -high plinth. Also, ask the supplier to staple a breather membrane over the frame and then counterbatten before fixing the cladding boards. Obviously you'll...

Apart from the above, I agree with your every word. If you don't have a planer thicknesser you'll soon get pretty good with a handplane. Yep, the big deal here is that the OP is going to end up with a shiny collection of expensive tools, no money left to spend on wood, and no space to work in.

I wouldn't be bothered if they're missing. Welding up new ones wouldn't be too hard, or you could even make some nice wooden ones. I mean, I agree that it shouldn't be used without doors, but my point is that new doors are easy.

Whilst I completely agree with you about using this technique, (and it's how I do it), boy am I cautious around here about ever saying something is the correct way to do the job. There are usually lots of ways of skinning most woodworking cats......

It's easier, Deema, to start your cut across the top of the work, and when you get to the front edge a mm or 2 deep, drop the heel of the saw as far as you can and saw down the front edge to the bottom. You now have two tracks to follow, and the saw will want to stay in them. Just completw the...

Welcome Carl. Forget the worktop. Use your Workmate to build yourself a proper bench. A worktop on a Workmate will always be a flimsy wobbly pain in the neck.

Nah, that's not showing off. Shave a sleeping mouse.......THAT'S showing off.

Any sign of the table? It's just scrap without it. That might be part of the table tilting mechanism, lying in the weeds just to the right of the machine.

Oil.....oak.......outdoors......... Whatever variation you choose on this theme you are liable to end up disappointed.

Steve and Trevanion have got this about right. Learn your skills with a small collection of tools, and when you reach the limits of what you can do with them you'll have a clearer idea of what you need next. Spend your money on wood, not tools. I saw a good video this afternoon by a boatbuilder...

I don't own or use a table saw, so take this with a pinch of salt if you like...... ......but it strikes me that if you have a proper crown guard those gripper things can't work. In other words, in an attempt to add a layer of work-handling safety you need to compromise the overall machine...