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Well, I wouldn't let that sapwood anywhere near the finished product, personally. Each to their own. If you are soaking this in resin then that will do the "hardening" for you, and there'll be no need for any secondary/ alternative treatment.

Yep, that's certainly true....and a useful thought.

Why wouldn't you just remove it?

I thought you might like to see mine, Bill, by way of contrast. Made from some scraps of 4x2 and off cuts of pine from the scrap bin: No moving parts, just a slit in the 4x2 legs which the coach screws close up.

I have a couple of spare handsaws awaiting restoration. At the moment I am cutting rather a lot of ply, and it has crossed my mind that one of the saws, which has virtually no teeth, might be worth filing smooth and re-cutting to suit the nasty lightweight splintery Far Eastern plywood which...

Where do you keep finding these photos?

Not at all! This is UK Workshop, not UK Woodworking. The framing is a tad heavy for me, but it's a fun design and looks beautifully finished.

You've probably seen my doors.........6x1 sawn boards with a half-lap, ledged and braced. Quick and cheap, but pretty agricultural. You could make the pair in half an afternoon. After a spate of break-ins at local outbuildings, I'm considering either replacing them with steel doors, or lining...

Sold.

I'd never put a piece of veneered sheet material on a delivery lorry. That's something I'd always collect myself. My local branch (Sudbury) would look after it, though, if I did want it delivered, because I've known them for decades and I'd simply ask them to be careful.

Ridgeons (Huws Gray) will get it in for you. So will Nordic Timber (Witham). Andersons (Witham) used to be the major sheet materials specialist in East Anglia, but I'm not sure they exist any more.

Do you not understand that these two highlighted phrases are in complete contradiction to each other? A pushers job is not to hold the wood down and push it forward. A pusher's fundamental job is to keep you hand away from the blade. By removing the guard you are making an accident with...

Yep, probably. That's just another concentrated source of tannins.

It won't work at all. Ash doesn't have the tannin levels necessary to produce the ebonising reaction. I'm afraid you are going to be staining it to turn it black. There is a fussy work-around, which is to add tannin to the ash via tannic acid, but tannic acid isn't something commonly found at B&Q!

That looks lovely. Maybe avoid the short grain thing with the box joints if you replicate this in a piece of furniture..... You don't really have enough lap on the lead to pin the top edges of the lower sheets with clout nails, so I suggest you use beads of silicon under it all (or a...

:) In my view (and others vary, I know), but a 52-1/2 or similar IS the whole hog, and wooden screw things are just a gimmick.

Sawing the tenon.......I'd have tried to get it right off the saw, and make any adjustments necessary on the other piece of wood. Planing and chiseling huge hard knots like those is just a nightmare.

I'd snaffle the first 52-1/2 you see. You can always remove it from your fist bench and put it on your second. Having said that, I am using an adapted school bench, which I've had for 40 years, and there is no reason to change it. It's nothing special, but it's solid. Really, that's all you need...

You can get away with 38x25, but it's best to use 50x25, especially if you are going to end up needing butt joints to the boarding. It's hard to get nails from two boards into 38mm.

Unnecessary on a shed.