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I'd probably go, External cladding, stud to create air-gap, breathable membrane, insulated stud wall (depending on your preference an acoustic partition, rock wool or pir board) then plasterboard. Is it touching the ground at all on the outside? If so you'll probably need a damp proof membrane...

Sorry I meant the wood is stained, just worried about painting it as it would need to be painted white! Have attached an image, will hopefully work...

Might have to look at shiplap etc, I have seen sawn external timber but it has a dark 'stain' to it, it that going to affect me painting it? Naturally being a girl it has to be white and pink just my luck!

Have another wallet hoover on the way so I'd like it to last! I've only discounted feather edge on that basis and because I prefer the look of flat wood! A timber frame house will come one day, just have to pack them off to uni first... :)

Yeah I'm going to try my local merchant to be on the safe side, have to say they will have to go some as a 2.4m length of CLS from wickes is £1.75! In terms of expansion etc could it cause the wood to crack if they are screwed onto the frame one on top of the other?

So I'm currently building a playhouse for my daughter and want it to last so have discounted feather board for cladding, I was thinking about 19mm x 100mm sawn treated timber but have realised 38mm x 63mm CLS is actually cheaper! Now it's going to be painted/well maintained so I'm hoping that...

Yeah...original idea has everything flush but knowing how long it will take to paint and get it right I don't want to have to see it all crack after a couple of months! Think I might leave a 1-2mm uniform gap between all of the sheets, could just pretend its a 'design feature'...? :)

I'm hoping to start building a new floating tv cabinet soon, I'm thinking about a wooden frame with sheet wood (MDF/Chipboard/Plywood etc) on top and then shiny white cabinet paint and an enamel finish. The issue I think I will have is the wood expanding and cracking the paint/enamel, does...