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Artie: reference please. Sounds like totally misinformed nonsense which you would do well not to spread.

Hi Matthew, I had exactly the same problem with one I bought in June. They replaced the motor for me and it continued to cut out after not too much use. I sent it back for a full refund and bought a used machine instead. Sorry to hear you are also having problems.

My EB went for £245.... But it was in Northumberland. And it wasn't in great nick.

I had an EB HC260 and it was no fun putting a 2.5m 9x2 over it. The tables on mine were pretty short (800mm), I think some of the new ones have longer tables but they will still be pretty light weight. The axminster would likely feel a bit more secure to put big stuff over, as it has a lot...

So I drilled a load of holes in the intake pipe, and then fitted a rotating sleeve around it so I could vary the numbers of holes that were open. The idea was to increase the flow rate through the cyclone. It seems to have been beneficial but I haven't tested it particularly scientifically.

I found that mine improved when I introduced an additional (adjustable) air intake upstream of the cyclone and before the long tube going to the tools. This increased the flow rate and seemed to stop a load of the fine stuff making it to the vacuum.

The thing is that buying an old machine is daunting, and the idea of buying something that will be ready to use is attractive. More time woodworking, less time fettling old machines..... BUT what surprised me was that it took me much less time to set up the Sedgwick than the Jet. It took...

Something pretty similar happened to me when I made my bench 3 years ago. I hadn't got as far as doing the whole top when I realised it was all going wrong. I took it to a local joinery workshop where they surfaced and thicknessed it for me and then I took the rest of the glue up rather more...

I've just bought an old Sedgwick MB planer thicknesser - what an amazing bit of kit compared to the recurrently faulty Jet which has been returned for a refund! Anyway, I've been setting it up ready to get to work and wasn't sure about the correct height settings for the thicknesser infeed and...

Well I can't be sure because I haven't tried them! I've had a look at an axminster industrial rip saw which retails at £2700 I think. That seemed a solid bit of kit. A new Sedgwick TA-315 is about the same. Obviously I am no expert on this matter!

Would you consider buying second hand? 1k would easily get you something decent like a wadkin AGS 10/12 or maybe even Sedgwick TA315? I'm in the process of upgrading from the second hand axminster ts-200 I picked up a little while back. It showed me that a TS was worth having but that it wasn't...

I'm new to table saws too.... Recently picked up a second hand axminster ts-200 and needed some blades. I have a general purpose blade and a fine x-cut. I decided that for such a small saw I don't need a dedicated rip blade as big stuff will be cut on the bandsaw and out through the thicknesser...

Well I've nailed some 500mm lengths of staff bead to a board with various gaps in between. I used a piece of approx 100x50 timber as my stile and used some plastic shims to set the spacing before nailing the bead in place and inserting the seal. The original plan was for 2mm each side for the...

Thanks RobinBHM. Wise words about the mock-up. I had been meaning to do this and then decided to rely on the specs, but I know it makes sense really!

Thanks scholar, that's really useful. Thanks for sharing your workflow. I hadn't realised that the sofseal bubble seal could be pushed in rather than slid in. That makes a big difference to the plan for painting. I guess having your PB in a plastic channel means that it is easy to remove after...

This has turned into a lively topic!! Jacob - interesting to hear about the "trad" view. I'm fully aware you have spent your working life doing this sort of stuff and I'm a hobbiest with a totally different career but.... You have said that a properly constructed sliding sash is very well...

Robin, thanks for the useful tips. Particularly about not profiling the top sash meeting rail - I had to read that twice then the penny dropped! I have already got various seals following phone advice from reddiseals. Sofseal bubble seal for the beads, and sofseal P for the top/bottom of the...

Thanks for all the replies! I'm going to take the same route as RobinBHM and allow 1.5mm clearance and paint the bead and frame before installation. Why seals on the parting bead? Well, that is what all the commercial manufacturers seem to do, I suppose there must be a reason! I also have...

Hi Andy, Thanks for your reply. The difficulty with putting it in unpainted is that there will be seals set into the bead, and they slide in from the end, so have to be put in prior to installation of the bead and I fear they will be to paint around. So I was hoping to paint frame, sashes and...

Hi Phil, Thanks, that's interesting. Do the screws look OK? I suppose it's just not what we are used to seeing, that's all. I've actually bought ready-made PB, which has a track to hold the draught seals. The supplier do 2 versions, one with track one side, that must be cut and reversed in the...