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They hit staff with some pretty high rates for parking too - and that's if they determine that the staff member qualifies for a permit at all!

I'd suggest that anyone over 50 who wishes to have a PSA test takes a copy of the PCUK consensus guidelines or Public Health England Prostate Cancer Risk Management Programme guidelines to discuss with their GP if the GP is refusing access to the test. The threshold age becomes 45 if you have...

I'm a urologist currently working on a PhD related to prostate cancer and thought perhaps I could provide some useful information. The following link might be helpful https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/prostate-specific-antigen-testing-description-in-brief. The leaflet summarises the...

No Grippers here! You will see to the right of the saw there is a long thin scrap of timber. I was using this to poke the workpiece through the 'tunnnel'. OTT on the safety? Maybe, but I wanted the workpiece held down and in to the fence as if there were a Shaw guard there. The guard stays in...

Although of course you are correct!

Err yup but obviously I don't have one of those.

I've done this on the saw using two cuts rotating in between (15x35mm rebate for sashes). I used some of the magswitch hold downs and feather boards to guard the cut. I tried using the router table as per accepted best practice but got bored as 4 passes were needed for a clean cut and I had...

The caster Base is the Jet one which came with my previous PT. It's rated at 400kg but this is ambitious as I found when I put my sedgwick PT on it. It's solid enough with the saw and fine if you just want to roll it back and forwards but a pain to swing it around unless you have loads of space...

Here's a pic of the extraction arrangement on my AGS 10. The green metal but is original and I have added the ply and mdf box with the dust port. Works pretty well.

Mitre cut before cutting away waste moulding with coping saw and cleaning up with a chisel. Then put the mortice in and do the tenons with one mitred shoulder. Mike

The bottom of the rebate is level with the bottom of the moulding. The mitre therefore forms a neat corner with the edge of both elements. So cut the moulding first, then make a rebate on the other side to the same depth, then do the mitres and the joints. Hopefully this end-on photo will help.

You could mitre to the depth of the moulding at the T&M joint like on these sliding sashes I am making. The rebate needs to be exactly the same depth as the moulding. Here is one joint pulled apart a bit: And here is the rail with tenon: Running the router round after assembly will result...

Dieter Schimdt also has flat topped rip blades http://www.fine-tools.com/kreissaegeblaetter.html

Obviously it would have been cold in there! Total non-starter that idea.

Ha! Hand tool workbench is in the front hall...

Don't worry - the world needs sceptics! But we also need to be able to consider new ideas.... :P

How is something useful by being 'almost a hold down'??! Obviously I also use a push stick and also have hold downs. In any case I am pleased with the guard, it seems very versatile and rather safer than the previous and arrangement. One thing I forgot to add is that paint job is awful. A...

Like Heimlaga said..... ...and it is far more effective at covering the blade when doing bevel cuts. I earn my living doing delicate work with my hands so they are worth looking after! Mike

Don't forget that 3 phase converters are available if you don't have a 3 phase supply.

No it wasn't cheap! But the guard and the replacement riving knife mean that I can make all the cuts I want to without removing the guard or the RK, which means that I am not tempted just to make that quick cut without the guard.