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Doesn't look like any surgical retractor I've ever used. As previously mentioned the wooden handle would be a complete no-no. But the shape of the blade doesn't look right either. Having said that they do come in all sorts of designs for specific tasks.

This thread is set to be THE Internet resource on window making!

Great thread! Thanks Coley I will be following this with interest. I have a strange fascination with windows!!

It sounds like the improved wastage as described may make the big price hike over sapele or iroko worth it? Expecially if needing to discard whole boards of hardwood. I have certainly (in my very limited experience) had some sapele sash components twist and become unusable after putting the...

Best wishes for your recovery Phil. Mike

I'd suggest screwing the carcasses together as it is quick and cheap with entirely adequate strength. I quite like the Spax MDF screws as they don't split it when driven into the edge. Shaker doors can be made from 22 and 6mm MDF. Plenty of examples of this on the forum. I have done a thread on...

Wealden blades are made by various different manufacturers. I have had one that I'm pretty sure was AW. I alps have one that is German and came from them.

That's a very kind offer Dave thank you. I've already got a beading bit though. Really appreciate the thought. Kitchen island is underway and there will be some pics at some point but probably when it's finished. I work too slowly to drip feed a WIP! Mike

That link doesn't seem to be working (certainly via tapatalk). Strange since I pasted the url direct. Anyway. Google "vimeo paid content" or suchlike to find it. Mod edit: - link works in various PC Browsers

Hi Steve, I don't know much (anything) about this but I am aware that some people publish paid for video content via Vimeo. https://vimeo.com/help/faq/vimeo-on-dem ... ing-videos A few years ago I subscribed to the Paul Sellers site for a bit and although that was all indexed through his...

Thanks for the kind comments folks.

I've had a look at his website and all his published magazine articles are indexed here: http://www.peterseftonfurnitureschool.c ... -articles/ The article is called 'choosing the right hardware: Part 1 Hinges' Mike

I've had a question by PM about the models of hinges and runners used. For the greater good I am answering via the thread! Hardware came from M&D Online. Hinges and mounting plates: CLIP top standard hinge 71B3750 (71B3750) CLIP hinge mounting plate - 174E6100.01 (174E6100.01) = £2.10...

Thanks for the feedback everyone. Woodmonkey: definitely take your point. Thanks. They did feel a little low when lined up with the the midrails though. The midrails were positioned to line up with the top of the drawers - not sure if this is the usual approach but it made sense to me.

Thanks very much Robin. I think I'm with you on using two separate face frames in future. I wanted to achieve a totally seamless look which is why I did it as one frame, but it was a pain at all stages of production and needed handling with care! I think in this case two frames would probably...

Thanks Matt, Materials were about £500 Inc VAT. That includes adhesives, fixings, finishes etc

Here are some photos of some fitted furniture I made for my neighbours. It's the first time I've done work for somebody else so it was an interesting experience taking their ideas, building on them / moderating them and turning them into a design for approval. Timber Ready for face frames...

1/3 to 1/2 of the thickness of the workpiece is a maximum for the tenon thickness not the size you need. I'd suggest 16mm tenons would be fine that's what I used on my workbench with 150×90mm legs. In terms of the length then just make them as long as you can before they bump into each other...

I'm no pro but love my TS55! It's been used for a load of kitchen carcasses and now working on some fitted bedroom furniture. You don't need the clamps, the track stays put even on slippy stuff like MFC. You could make do with one rail and slide it along mid cut. I tend to cut some bits of...

Remove the staff bead, take the bottom sash out and then you should see the pocket pieces on each side which can be removed to give you access to the weight pockets.