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Had a quick look this morning but there's too much info to wade through. The nearest I could find to illustrate the method is on this web page - second image down (above the clowns) - you are basicly using a vanishing point (as in perspective) to scale the plane image down.

That doesn't work with softwoods. You need a microscope.

So stop it! :) I would buy the cheapest bench I could find and just start using it. It's just a tool, not a museum piece. Only you can know what you are going to need in terms of size, vice type, other work holding etc, etc. to move forward. If you don't start making though you will never know...

OK, I used to do this many, many years ago when I was doing my A levels. If you look online there will be many free books (eg Internet Archive) on technical/engineering drawing and look for 'Scaling' It's been too long for me to remember the specifics but it is something fairly easy to do. You...

What are you trying to achieve? If just a simple replica you could trace around it and transfer that. If you want to 'lay it out' you would need to find the centres of the curves by assuming they are (part) circles and using the 'disecting two chords' method. It could have started out based on...

It will but it's a long-winded route to achieve the same result you'd get with Steve's cutter above (post #7)?

It's used a lot for shingles so there is no need to season it for that but I would expect it to be dry for other purposes.

I've just bought some Aerolite for a small job next week. I hope I'm not going to be disappointed!!

That makes sense, and if it works for you keep doing it. I would have thought the square would be a bit fiddly and unnecessary though as the scribed line (that would be across the 'thickness of the board) would give you your perpendicular reference? I normally just pare by eye and then check...

I've done this with a pendulum cut.

I think you're over-thinking this? Can you post a picture or diagram of what you have in mind? To me, a pendulum jig will give you an oval shaped depression?

Only issue I could see is that seasonal movement of the wood might loosen the inserts?

I agree. It's easy to blame the Company but most issues I've had have been with individual drivers - different driver another day and no problems. Some drivers here refuse to come into our building and deliver to the actual unit, they just leave parcels inside the door and since covid means they...

Make enquiries on this site, very helpful group - Model Engineer

They are readily available but I've only ever needed two in the last ten years.

Don't try and force it to dry or you can build up stresses in the wood. You're better off letting it dry naturally. The rain won't damage it but the UV will degrade the surface over time (regardless of what the product marketing says!). Just make sure you key it first.

For application of any finish they would need to be dry to about 12-15% to allow the fiish to adhere (check with the manufacturer though. As for service moisture content, that will vary across the season. If they are above 25%, and I wouldn't rely to much on an moisture meter, they will...

I've tried a range of abrasives over the years and I keep going back to the Bosch (gold).

I don't disagree (my experience with french polish is very limited) but I have seen it recommended (probably on youtube though so take it with a pinch of salt - not literally though else you'll scratch your polish!)

It makes perfect sense if you're in the renovation game. If you had to renew the sheathing on a wall with 16" centres a 1200mm board isn't going to do it! Metrication didn't undo history :)