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It will be fine!

Yes, and then everyone can argue about whether the machine was properly calibrated... :?

Yes, and it got quite heated apparently.... :wink:

Isn't there some story about how Richard the Lionheart and Saladin met and were having a chat about weaponry, and Richard took his axe and smashed through a piece of armour. Then Saladin got his scimitar and threw a silk handkerchief into the air and cut it into two as it floated down...

One of these? http://www.axminster.co.uk/rubber-adaptors-prod22821/ If not, plenty of ideas here: http://www.axminster.co.uk/extraction-accessories-dept812554_pg1/

Thanks Andy, yes I think the shelves were veneered birch ply with solid mouldings front and back, tongue and grooved into the ply. I marked the holes out by hand with a divider and square, it would be good to have a jig for that, as it is quite time awkward and time consuming drilling so many...

Poplar really is very cheap for a hardwood so worth getting a quote as it is longer lasting than redwood, and is usually knot free so finishes more easily, and is generally nicer to work with, Norm is right! Unsorted should be fine, as the appearance doesn't matter at all. Just as well, as it...

I love those saw tooth ones, though I've never done them myself. I tend to do wooden pins, which are also traditional — at least I've seen them on pieces well over a hundred years old. Here's one I did earlier: on this bookcase They have to be made quite fat — at least 1/2" — or they...

Agree tulip wood would be an excellent choice. Plywood and lippings would be OK, but would be more work with having to apply the lippings for no real gain.

I don't get it. Perhaps I'm being naive, but it doesn't look overly commercial to me — most of the pages are about building or choosing your own equipment, and it seems odd for someone who was just out to make a killing to provide full details on how to make the thing for yourself. OK, he has...

I think that website is a bit over the top, but nevertheless he has a good point when he says that pretty much all the research done on woodworkers and dust has been in industrial settings where the extraction tends to be vented outside. In a small workshop with extraction inside I think you...

Just wondering if anyone ever ended up finding a cheaper alternative to axminster for these filters?

Searching my memory banks from the research I did for one I made recently, the only issue I can see from having one face thinner is that the stiffness of the box is mainly a function of the thickness of the faces combined with the depth of the core, so making one surface thinner would compromise...

That's OK! I will just ask them if they mind iron stains, and if they do I will suggest galvanised, or painted with the proviso that it might not work 100%....

Ideally I would suggest cascamite or extramite, or polymite, or whatever 'mite they're calling it at the moment. Or any other brand of urea formaldehyde glue. Comes as powder and you mix it with water. Though if you're only after a few years of life for the thing you could get away with a...

OK, thanks everyone, lots of options there, will have a chat with client next week, and see what he says!

Do you have a glaziers near by, they would quite possilby give you an-offcut for nothing, or for pennies anyway.

Forgot to say, if you are serious about the sound reduction you will need some seals al around the edge, it's amazing how much noise leaks through small gaps....

Assuming that the rest of the construction is reasonably soundproof (if not doing the door will make zero difference), the only thing that really works well is mass, which is why fire doors work quite well. Just build it heavy. Laminate multiple sheets of mdf together to get the thickness you...

That's my worry — I don't want a call back in a few months...