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Thanks all for your suggestions. Shame oak is a bit tricky as that's mostly what I use. If I go ahead with this it will be mostly oak, so I hope I don't mess up! MAC Timbers is a little far for me, but it's a good idea to go and have a chat with an expert if I can find someone local, will...

Since we're going slightly off topic I have to say that the best iron I have is a Ron Hock which I put in my Record jack plane. It doesn't look that much - not so fat as the LN/Clifton etc. but it is one very nice iron. Oddly enough the plane, which I bought new seven years ago when I knew...

My 1200 grit diamond stone gives an edge sharp enough to shave with. How much sharper do you need?!! For anything other than very specialist applications this is more than enough IMO. For very tricky timbers I might give it a quick strop on leather with honing paste to finish off, but not very...

Hi Jim, I use diamond stones, so it does get sharp fairly quickly, but it just feels WRONG!

I got a LN jointer and I HATE the A2 iron. Really hate it. I can't put my finger on why but for me it just feels wrong when sharpening. It doesn't seem to 'talk back' in the way a normal iron does. I don't get any feedback or sense of what's happening to it on the stone as I sharpen. If that...

Sanding sealer - brush is fine. Finishing oil, apply with cloth. Acrylic varnish — brush or (easier) foam brush.

There's not that much to choose between the main brands. I use Liberon which works fine for me.

I have access to a small bit of land that is just the right size for a couple of stacks of boards. I'm thinking about getting into seasoning my own timber as in theory it will save me quite a bit of money in the long run. I have a general idea of what is involved but just wondering if anyone...

Almost all finishes will darken the timber quite a lot. Wax not so much, but it is probably the least durable finish there is. If going for wax the ready made ones (Briwax or whatever) are more durable than simple beeswax. If you're really set on not darkening the timber you could try an...

Those Liberon wax sticks are a bit soft. Try Hard wax http://www.konig-uk.co.uk/konigshop/ko141-hardwax-p-35.html You melt it in with a (not too hot) soldering iron. Or Shellac sticks (ditto) http://www.axminster.co.uk/liberon-liberon-shellac-filler-sticks-prod23270/

If you use Danish make sure you wipe off each coat immediately or the oil will start to go off and there will be dull patches. Even leaving it on for two minutes is too long.

Nope, same stuff. Just common or garden wire wool. Grade 0 usually OK.

I know, I know, industry needs x, y, z, we have to prepare people for the real world and the workplace etc. Not saying it's wrong, but still it makes me sigh :(

I second the chess table idea - like this one: http://bray.olx.ie/handmade-chess-tables-iid-299598481 Lot of potential for detail and not too big. There's a lovely way to make the board itself from seperate blocks in Krenov's Impractical Cabinetmaker...

For most furniture I'd be inclined to do the full four. And wax over the top.

although cellulose thinners (ie acetone, basically) will remove it faster than meths will....

+3, generous offer from Roger, nothing beats being shown. I expect you'll find it's easier than you expect with a bit of instruction. Also starting with water stones and scary sharp has probably made things more difficult than they needed to be as with these methods you have to think about the...

And there was me thinking that life is complex with shades of grey between black and white. Very few things in life are "nothing more than".

Yup, give or take a little :)

Try a wiped oil/varnish finish. Mix 1/3 each of danish oil, polyurethane varnish and turps. Wipe on then immediately wipe off again. Allow to dry. Repeat 3 or 4 times. Easy, quick and pretty hard wearing.