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Hide glue for 'proper' heirloomy furniture Cascamite for everyday furniture/built ins Titebond for workshop use — jigs etc I used cascamite over pva type glues because it sticks to itself (since I make more mistakes than I should this can be useful) and has a nice long open time. And it is a...

+1, and dipping copper nail tips in linseed oil first makes them go in a treat if the holes are a bit tight....

All good points, and to be honest I use kiln dried if I need to get the job out quickly. I would always use air dried all things being equal, but sometimes you can't beat the convenience of kilned. Storage space is less of a problem if you break the timber down into 'almost there' dimensions...

Yes, air dried works better with hand tools and tears out less! And so long as it is properly dry you will be fine. My experience is that air dried comes into the workshop at maybe 15%, but if the workshop is warm and dry, and you leave it to acclimatise in there first, it will go as dry as...

To put it another way: why do you normally go to the trouble of bevelling your edges when you could save a lot trouble by just putting the top through the thicknesser a couple more times to get the finenss of edge you want? If the answer is "no reason, I've been wasting my time with the...

If it were me I would be asking myself what I would do if I could have the timber as thick as I wanted it. And if the answer was that I would have it thicker and bevel it then I would assume that I am being forced into a compromise i'm not quite comfortable with, and i would go and find some...

It seems there are various ways you can get the top out of this bit of timber if you are determined, but I'm wondering if you are compromising the design you intended in order to fit the timber. Do you actively WANT a top 3/8 thick or is this thickness being chosen because you want to use this...

One issue I can see with a 3/8" top is how do you attach it? It's just about do-able but you wouldn't get a great deal of purchase with screws in timber that thin. Another problem is that since you will need to attach it in a way that allows for movement, there will not be much strength there...

I would consider getting a small radial arm saw for crosscutting (which are cheap as chips secondhand) and build it in to the outfeed table for the bandsaw (assuming you have room for a permanent outfeed table). The outfeed table can also be used as a second work surface for finishing, assembly...

Lovely job!!! That's going to be a very nice table.

So long as the table is well made and it's all fitted to something solid then it shouldn't need to be touched again. The other settings need to be done fairly often, but they don't take long.

+1 to this. It's a difficult one. It can be very hard in today's world to find work that is enjoyable and feels meaningful, and pays the bills, particularly if you are a creative type of person. And furniture making seen from that place can look very appealing. The reality is not quite like...

That's it. The appearance of a droop is most likely caused by the table not being coplanar if that hasn't been set up properly yet.

Not at all, so long as you are sensible about it!

Is the arm drooping in relation to the column of the saw?

Normal procedure for me is: -Adjust the arm so that the blade travels square to the fence when pulled along the arm. -Adjust the 'bevel angle' axis. -Finally adjust yoke/motor assembly so that blade face is perpendicular to the fence (ie swivel the yoke until the blade of a square set...

It does. I've met quite a few people who've done one or other of the big furniture training courses. Off the top of my head: one is making kitchens and doing pretty well; one is an antique restorer working for the trade and doing well enough; one is working as a chippy; two lost interest and...

I'm not sure what your situation is, but if you are an absolute beginner then you will need to learn basic hand skills which are the same no matter what you intend to do later. Since your resources are limited, one thing you might consider is to get enough training to be able demonstrate some...

Ah, got it. Nice idea, but I don't think it would like right on this piece.

Things like fitted wardrobes, cupboards, shelving and kitchens — anything where the furniture is 'built in' to the room, if that makes sense.