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Has some dulling effect on tools, not as bad as teak. The dust is horrible, makes you choke and wheeze, you'll want a good mask. The splinters easily go septic. Apart from that it's great!

Axminster will probably have something, but it will cost you a bit more. There really is no free lunch here unless you get mighty lucky on ebay.

If anyone's still interested I solved the problem of heating aluminium plates in a very boring but effective and cheap way. I bought an old one of these off ebay: And put it face up on the workshop floor. Then I made a couple of low trestles about 10" high and put them on either side of the...

At £60 it was never going to be any good! I agree, with the others, all things being equal you would be far better off picking up an old drill second hand.

"I don't think it's necessary to be down on low-tech, low-impact building / life-style. You could always cut out a failed glass unit & render in another one." Personally I'm not, anything but, but still it needs to last and not leak, surely, given someone else is paying for it! I've looked...

Exactly! Or when the sealed unit seals go and they mist up and look rubbish. And I can't believe that water won't get straight past the render and into the straw, surely?

I'm doing a couple of bits and pieces for a little straw bale building at the moment, and I was over there today to measure up. I was talking to the chap who's making it about how he's doing the windows. He's put some rough softwood frames round a sealed unit, and he's going to put these into...

Right, noted thanks!

Don't see any reason why it won't work. PVA type glues can creep a bit over time but it's only a little panel.

+1 to that. Such a simple thing to do. I've had glue where, unbeknownst to me it's been sitting in the shop for months, and then it doesn't work. Nightmare. OP, could you try a few experiments with scraps — different pot of glue, and with and without cleaning the veneer?

Ok, that's great, thanks. I'll put a quote together based on that.

Thanks, that's perfect. Can I ask How thick do you make the laminations? Is three layers enough?

I've been asked to make a couple of windows for someone for their garden office. They want arched frames, but I don't think the budget is going to stretch to doing them properly with hammer-head joints. Any cheap and cheerful options for doing this? It is just a simple arch with one large...

Thanks, lots to think about here. Using plated brass will not work, as needs to be flattened after gluing in as phil.p says. Andy, I would need a few thousand cm2, hence the problem! I will have a look into Nickel silver — does this tarnish at the same rate as 'normal' silver? I guess shellac...

Thanks everyone, please stop on the wire thing, it's not wire inlay, it needs to be cut from sheet :) It would to be on a large chest, with floral inlay or marquetry, a gift for his wife. I think it will probably have to be pewter or nothing, as I don't think the epoxy powders would be right...

Silver is expensive enough in the quantity I would need for this job, it would need to be reasonably thick, certainly at least .5mm, and it soon adds up! Stainless would look OK, but it's very hard and would be a lot of work to cut with a fretsaw I would have thought (lots of leaves and stems).

I have a client who wants 'silver' inlay, but can't afford the real thing. Is there any cheaper alternative that can be polished to a high shine (and preferably resists tarnishing). Thought about pewter but it's a bit dull. Does Tin shine up nicely?

I used to have the record and thought it was pretty good for the money. Nice and quiet and seemed sturdily built. No experience of the others.

Thanks all, that's two votes for the dormers, versus one for the other two, so for want of any better way to choose between them I'll go with the dormers!

He makes some good stuff, wish I could justify one of those wagon vises....