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In terms of using them every day, I do in almost everything I make. From holding down wood to saw and to mortice, to using one to hold my hand grinder or when I use my benchtop router table. I was lucky enough to get two of Richard's direct from him for about £23 I think. Having used them for...

Thanks CC, I'll look. Billy, a cabinet makers half round. Thanks for the clear instructions, I'll try that tomorrow.

Cheers CC. I thought I 'knew' it should be a push stroke, but then the pull stroke seems easier and a cleaner cut. I've just shaped a handle in beech and it seemed to make a big difference on certain parts, sometimes a push stroke feeling easier. Clearly this is something I just need to play...

European.

...but are hand-stitched rasps meant to be used on a pull or push stroke? I have recently bought one and it wasn't as smooth as I thought, but I just tried pulling it with much better results. I feel stupid asking, so be gentle :oops:

Thanks for the run down. I'm trying to master saw sharpening at the moment, but I've yet to get to grips with setting (although that's partly because of the second-hand set which I don't know how to use properly I think). Which set do you use?

Fairly sure the drawer is oak, but can't see the carcase well enough.

Hi Phil and welcome to the forum. A really good place to start is to learn to fettle (adjust) a secondhand plane and to sharpen the blade. Likewise with chisels. Once you've got a couple of sharp chisels, a usable plane (all of which are available, for a few quid from car boot sales or the...

A very interesting guy and a great site. Congrats.

I've just bought r/c sockets from Lidl, 4 for £13. They work from one remote and are guaranteed for three years I think, which seems like a bargain to me and might solve your problem. With the freezer I mean, I don't think your Mrs will be pacified ;)

Neil, I find it crisp and easy to use in oak.

Unless you're infallible Jacob, I would argue that very little is inarguable. I've got a wheel marking gauge and, for me, it gives far better (more consistent) results than my wooden ones. That's not to say that the wooden ones aren't excellent tools, they just suit me less.

Dangerous stuff lignum...send it to me and I'll dispose of it for you, no charge.

Both my Stanley 50 and Record 44 (I think, I'm away at the mo) plough planes have nickers which would work and they have fences and depth stops. There's a cracking Saint Roy prog where he compares wooden and metal combi planes.

Aaron, welcome to the forum, your knives are beautiful and I think you'll fit right in here. If you want to see a stunning infill, have a look at this thread by our very own own Jimi (who's also a bit, err, obsessive about details, in a good way :lol: ); the-ukw-infill-project-t64219.html

Beautiful SM. The epoxy was green until it was polished and then it became brass/gold coloured. I don't know why it was green, possibly because the brass powder was retry old and had oxidised (my friend's theory).

It's theft from the description you give Rich. He has dishonestly (by pretending he bought the item you had in fact bought) appropriated (when he collected it) property belonging to another (you, or possibly the seller, depending on timings) with the intention of permanently depriving the other...

I've no idea how good they are, but I want to try 'Iran cap male from brushed precision steel'. Is that like a helmet from Tehran?

A fantastic project and I would also be happy to donate some chisels/saws etc when the time comes. Good luck with it and stay in touch. Also, when it comes to bandsaw blades, Ian at Tuffsaws is extremely helpful and his kit well-regarded and priced, so drop him an email once you have settled on...

This was requested by good friends for their wedding. The spec was 14", natural-edged platter for cheese. The only thing I could find was some cherry trunk which was only felled this year, so there was loads of movement and it was obviously end-grain. I sliced it with a chainsaw a few months...