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Many makes of table saw for portable/workshop use don't meet the regs I learnt many years ago. Have the 10xc and just seen a Dewalt. The Dewalt has an extractor on the guard and I have adapted my 10xc but guard extractor was only good where I could support pipe above machine. Also many...

Who knows a nice Sewerage Plant may emerge from the ground in Spring hopefully pleasantly scented!

Humidistat fan could be an idea, the ones I fit in bathrooms really work well, but, they are pulling moist air and warm dry air from the properties to reduce humidity. If a humidistat fan in a work shop is drawing off humidity and cold air from outside I would assume that it would only reduce...

Well get out got the shower ;)

Bring back work, it was easier!

Another +1 for scrapers have got some great results with the most pain in the backside hardwoods.

Wow nice job, the finnish I mean yep wot a job to take on!

Looks good to me :) just need to survey area and check joint sizes

Thanks all, watched a you tube video by Tibby Singh, he shows 4 different ways of doing it. His demo helps to decide what best suits me. Favourite would be the gun, 2 things put me off, the faff of filling the tube and waiting for pointing mix to go off enough to dress it. Thanks PerryGunn...

OK I have 2 of those weapons, no scutch. The mortar looks bad and patchy but I haven't given it a prod yet. So I'll check it out more thoroughly, then, to save my ageing joints I'll probably use my mains SDS (lighter than battery machine) and by either a scutching bit or possibly one of those...

😂 mortar Ninja, think its gonna be a mixed bag and manicures are too expensive

Two in a day I must be related to a bus :rolleyes:. So what is the best method of removing the old mortar before repointing these days, not by a hand chisel I hope! I have SDS machines so perhaps there's a specific chisel bit, or is there a specific power tool? Ooh whilst I'm on a run is...

I'm using one of these as it couples but also gives me an offset I need to line up with the surface drain 110 outlet, haven't seen the rubber connectors with an offset, so this should work just fine with a bit o fettlin :)

Thanks sounds good idea to me That also works for me, careful I'll star subbing for groundworks next, nah 66 a bit old to start that game :rolleyes:

Thanks Artie, as Daniel2 put, below ground I am connecting to the larger clay pipework, reducing it up to 110mm for a surface drain, so the flow goes from the drain, through a small distance of 110mm into the existing 160mm. Would have been easier with a sketch with words 😁 It's amazing how...

Thanks Daniel2 I had wondered about that, now as a result of your comment I have just realised once connected, and then back filled it can't go anywhere. I like it when a plan comes together, with a little help from my friends;)

Doing a short run of surface drain. The underground clay is 180/160 and I have a plastic level invert offset reducer (try saying that after a dram or two) to drop in to the 160 and connect up to 110. There is no seal so would it be best to use a silicone bead around it to stabilise the joint...

There are companies that specialise in rewind/builds on motors if you can find one where you are.

Get better soon, and if they don't re-use ask for it as a souvenir :unsure::rolleyes:

Hammer fixings are not meant for the type of load you could put on the brackets, although probably mainly a shear load. Fischer I believe still do an S6RS60Z frame fix, this will take more load than a hammer fix, and would go through the bracket, plug and screw. If not an S8RS80Z but you would...