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If you're that concerned about strength, 30mm ply would be plenty overkill as Mike says, but you could always just use scaffold board? It's easy to buy a length and cut to size yourself then too. And with the left over piece you can make yourself a nice shelf for the kitchen :D

But if it's plastered in there is no gap? It's something to bear in mind for the future though, thanks.

I'm not sure I understand the question, why can't you just mark a straight line and cut it again with your circular saw?

Thanks Mike. I guess what I'm trying to say though, a pipe filled with water coming through a ceiling that's been plastered around, isn't generally a loss of fire integrity? Or is it? Or is it basically down to how a certain person i.e the building inspector interperates the regulations?

Reading that again, are you saying the boxing in penetrates the ceiling or the pipes? Because the pipes penetrate the ceiling wether the boxing in is there or not? This is a genuine question btw because I might have to change the way I've been boxing in.

Do they? First time I've ever heard that, and my building inspector or architect has never mentioned it on many conversions I've done, flats, offices, houses, holiday lets. Are you sure? I really can't see it being dangerous, by the time the fires burnt through the boxing in, there's still a...

They're brilliant. A 4ah battery nearly lasts all day when nailing roofing battens all day so for normal work they'll easily last a day. They're heavy, you know if you've been swinging one about all day. I've had one jammed nail the other day that took me undoing two Allen screws to get it out...

MDF is the answer to boxing in water pipes though. If it's just pinned onto battens, it can be removed easily if there's any leaks( there wont be, if something leaks it's guaranteed to be in the most awkward spot ever) it takes a perfect paint finish to blend in with the walls, and it's cheap...

Yes, I'm exactly the same. I'd much rather spend a couple of hours fixing something than throw it away and buy new.

Use MRMDF. Fix a plumb batten on each wall then fix the boxing to that. I normally use 18mm for one side then 6mm for the front if it's in a corner or 18mm both sides with a 6mm front if it's in the middle of a wall.

Assuming you mean butt joint the wall plates, you would use half laps surely?

Buy the kit of two nailers two batteries and a charger, Roughly 550 quid but they're really good. You can use the brad mailer then for architraves and trims etc too plus you'll get a good resale value. If you don't want to get a nailer, Timco screws are really good, and a lot cheaper than...

I think the dw7485 is just the new version of the dw745 isn't it?

Do they really only expand 0.2mm? That seems like nothing. I have never used those kind of hinges so have no idea

The size probably changes slightly depending on what material you're drilling into aswell I guess. There's no need to be measuring anything with vernier calipers in woodworking, that kind of accuracy is just not needed.

Did you put the replacement blades on upside down or something?! :lol:

You're very much in minority having no mobile phone. I couldn't imagine life without one. You can always order stuff for delivery? It's free over £50.

They do use the code don't they? You just type it in the search box?

A bit of water won't hurt it especially if it's not the finished floor don't worry. When are you going to start building the walls? That's when it starts getting exciting :D

Fair enough :)