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Drill bits are a good idea, although I wouldn't want to trust the shank of say 8mm to be exactly 8mm. I would think it would be smaller, to make sure its a clearance fit in the hole it's drilled. However I can measure them of course. (Dare I say that I think Elu router fence rods are 8mm?)

My Rapier "43" has just turned up again. Unbelievably I thought it had got lost in the move (or just as bad, mispacked and sitting in some damp place). Anyway I see the suggestion of 7mm rod to make shorter fence bars. Could someone measure the actual diameter of the original Record ones...

Great, thanks. It doesn't appear that they do sheets for our power sander, but I'll give them a call to see.

Hi, I am sure that I saw recommendations way back for a mail order outfit that sells every sort of sandpaper, but I can't remember the name. Does anyone know who I would be thinking of? I need some sheets for a power sander, and also need to top up my supplies for hand sanding. Thanks, Tony S

A bit more down to earth here's my favourite. It it was the first plane that really worked for me, and certainly the one that gets used the most. It still has the laminated handle that I made from scraps of plywood as a temporary measure but now kept out of stubbornness ..

Anyone else found that the slot in the Clifton cap iron is in the wrong place for use in a normal Stanley? Mine's out by a significant amount, so that the adjuster just about runs out of travel.

I use one quite often, mostly for thin stock of up to 20 or 25mm. I think that's really what they're meant for. Mine's a "Nobex" which was supposed to be a fairly decent make, and I am still using the blade that came with it. I see that Nobex blades are available from the usual suspects such...

I used one in a class (very trusting instructor, letting us use his tools) and I can't really remember any difference from his Stanley 45 that we also used.

Thanks for the comments guys. I've been off the grid until we got power and broadband into the house, so haven't caught up until today. I had a further looks around, and wonder whether some of the woodwork has been sealed with shellac. Some of the "stripped" woodwork is non-wetting...

Hi, The house that we're moving into has had quite a lot of the interior woodwork stripped back, and I have a nasty feeling that some of it has been waxed judging by smell and the fact that the wood has a non wetting surface. My questions are firstly how could I test that to see whether it is...

I've used wire wool to mouse proof gaps around pipes in the house. I'm not sure I fancy all the work involved in putting wire or wire wool into all the ridge and flashing gaps though. I reckon there are 100 or so "slots" along the ridge counting both sides, then 30 or so along a flashing...

Hi, Our "stable" is roofed with standard profile metal sheet, I can't remember the name but its the stuff with trapezoid rather than round corrugations. The eaves and ridge are draught proofed with foam inserts, which are very prone to mouse damage. Because these inserts are difficult to...

Any reason not to use Sterling board strips as stickers?

Delivered today while we were out, looks perfect. Just need to work out the rest of the router table now!

Is the spreadsheet offline at the moment? Following one of the previous links I now get a Google login page.

It's exciting isn't it. I just need to work out where to hide it till I have an excuse to spend time building the table.

Its huge! How big a circle can you cut? It looks like it's clamped down, so I assume it doesn't slide to start the cut. How do you get the workpiece into the starting position? Do you have to already have one edge cut to the correct distance from the centre?

Nice. What's the other one, with the Ash(?) handle?

Citylink looks good. Prices don't come out any less with either of the online "broker" type services that I checked (www.parcel2go.com and www.interparcel.com). I guess you want a service that collects, whereas I assume the Royal Mail price assume you take the parcels to the Post Office.

Thanks for that. I have another job where I'll need similar, so I'll try your jig in time for that. It looks like something that can be improvised without worrying too much about nice knobs and adjusters for the moment. I assume you just take really light cuts, and tap the blade closer...