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Is there any system that doesn't make a mess? I seem to get my hands dirty what ever I use. Gritty dust if using sandpaper dry, sludge from water stones or oil from oil stones.

I've been checking the specifications, and that seems to be the case although it doesn't help that the desiccant models don't seem to have such thorough documentation. For example at 60% and 10 deg Calorex DH30 will consume 550W, collect 11l/day and put 1.2KW of heat into the building. X-Dry...

Thanks, that's interesting. One of the specialist retailers was recommending the "X-Dry" from the same manufacturer - similar spec but I think slightly more powerful and noisier. As usual, specifications are a nightmare to decode, and seem to be designed to confuse. For example citing the...

Hi, I'm thinking about getting a mobile dehumidifier for the workshop. Based on past experience something like the Calorex DH35 would be about the capacity that I'd need. http://www.calorex.com/building-dryers/DH35.htm Plus points for Calorex include the fact that they document performance...

If I read that right, it's an argument in favour of bevel-up designs, on the basis that you take more off the bevel than off the back when resharpening. Anyone agree, and does it matter in the real world?

Thanks again. I think the heated cupboard is going to be my best bet. Assume the workshop humidity goes up to 90%, then I should aim to heat the cupboard to around 6 degrees above the workshop.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Hi there. We've just moved, and it doesn't look like I'll have the luxury of a totally dry workshop for quite a while. The existing buildings are too draughty to keep dry with a dehumidifier like I did in the old place. This'll be fixed in time, but meanwhile I have to accept that the...

Cheers, I think it probably needs heating if the concensus is that White Spirit should do the trick. I'll try that, preferably without creating a fire-bomb in the workshop.

Hi, Can anyone tell me the process to convert Carauba flakes into a paste or other useable form? I'm sure I saw an article on the Internet somewhere, but can't for the life of me find it now. It doesn't seem to be soluble in any sort of sensible workshop fluid, I've tried Meths, turpentine...

I have the Axminster AW127R and I don't rate it, especially inverted in a table. Main problem is the fine height adjustment. It needs a lot of force to turn to lift the routers weight against the strong return spring, but the adjuster knob is placed where you can't get a decent hold on it...

Thanks for all the comments. I'm not sure I'm much clearer on my decision, so maybe I'll look out for a second-hand Elu or Dewalt. I don't want to spend 150 quid and then wish I had something more powerful.

Hi, I'm considering the small Triton router for hobby use .. (1) To remain table-mounted most of the time (2) To enable me to use 1/2" shank bits should the need arise (3) Occasional hand-held use, for example where I need a 1/2" cutter I've read lots of discussion on here about router...

These guys do specialist boat-building timbers, including Sitka. I've seen favourable reports about them, but not dealt with them myself. http://www.robbins.co.uk/mar_softwood.htm

Have you seen that done? I took off the fine height knob, but it didn't seem to let the thing come apart. Maybe it needs a bit of force.

We had to do that when I worked at Halfords, coiling bicycle tyres. We weren't supposed to let customers coil their own purchase, 'cos they'd do it wrong and kink the tyre.

Cheers. Taking the springs out sounds a good first step, if I can work out how to dismantle it. I feel I can really justify spending on a decent router, so I will persist with the white monster meanwhile.

Hi, Does anyone have one of these brutes? Any tips for how to make it more usable inverted in a table? I find the combination of weight, stiff return spring and poor height adjuster all make it a pain to use. I'm now fed up with wrestling with it, and reckon I need to either work out how...

Yes, there are curved grinding marks on the "back" of the blade. It needs a bit more work to get rid of them, or at least make sure they don't extend right to the edge.

Making some progress. I need to work a bit on preparing and sharpening the blade, then I think I'm there. Thanks again.