Search results

Because the market wills it... All I can think is a lot of websites regarding vintage planes (and woodworking generally) are from the US, where Record isn't really known (I believe, or certainly not to the degree it is here). Hence you have lots of American gurus/sites saying "buy a vintage...

Have a look on Ebay for rough prices. If you are looking to sell now is the time to do so, 2nd hand tool prices have gotten stupid recently. I've seen Stanley 5's go for £80-90 in far worse condition than what your picture shows. I'd list them on Ebay, starting price at the lower end of what...

Yep, a solid steel bar running through the centre of the leg to stiffen it. You'd need a means of cutting said hole and it's not really practical, but it's all I could think of. Regarding warping of the top, yes your material is kiln dried but the humidity will vary throughout the year, and...

Assuming your design does allow for rock solid joints on the top, at 45mm DIA those legs are going to flex and without using a steel core there is nothing you can do about this. Your biggest issue is the joint at the top of the leg has to resist a Moment generated whenever the leg is twisted...

I've got 6 of the ~800mm long Axminster sash clamps on a rack, bought them years ago and nothing bad to say about them at all. Only once have they let me down (by being too short for the job...) You could do your blanks using these, 2-3 on top and 2-3 on the bottom. Plus you can do other stuff...

Didn't we do this one to death the other week? I can see this turning into another 94-page "debate" that, were it to occur in the real world, would end up with someone being glassed outside t'pub...

That is amazing! :ROFLMAO:

Fair enough, I genuinely couldn't think of any other reason why they'd be there...

I reckon it will be to do with the injection moulding process, probably more to do with raw material. Your biggest cost is the mould itself, after that it is the plastic you are injecting. By filling it full of holes you need to inject considerably less plastic (reduced cost); having had a look...

(here we go...) Go for a 600/800/1000 grit stone of your choice (depends what is commercially available for you, mine's a 400 & 1000 double-sided diamond stone). You only need the one grit. Then strop with leather & compound until shiny. I admit I use a basic honing guide (don't trust myself...

It would I suppose depend on what you intend to do with it? What's the thinking behind this and what is your current setup not doing for you? (I can't offer any direct advice but the answers to the above will probably make it easier for those more qualified to offer meaningful advice...)

'st on a bike! Part of me feels obliged to win that purely to decommission it and save someone from a trip to A&E...

This week's update: I've added the missing member that supports the rear of the tank. Note that if I were to use a Mortise and Tenon Joint, the mortise would be cross-grain (and according to Google a pig to cut). The traditional method I am led to believe is to use twin/triple mortise and...

HI James, Thank you for the suggestion. My understanding is given this is a glass tank (with a plastic trim base) it needs to be fully supported along the entire perimeter, but the centre is not important. If it was Acrylic then yes I'd definitely put a ply sheet on and add an additional...

Next Update: On the weekend gone I managed to complete the joinery for the main components of the core frame. There is still some minor fettling work to do but everything fits together and is square, it's just some (very minor) adjustments to get the hairline gaps to close. Some of these do not...

An additional option might be the below? CMT Plug Cutter 40mm Plug Diameter S=16mm You would need a proper meaty drill, but you'd get consistent 40mm discs. You can then bore them from 3mm thick strips of timber of your choice. Careful use of clamps (an an appropriate forstner-type bit) would...

Bl***y hell it looks like the tenons have sheared in half there! Best approach I can think is to try and remove what's left of the original tenons and replace with blocks of hard wood, making a Mortice and Loose Tenon joint. Issues with that I can see however include splitting the mortice...

There are numerous laser profilers out there who can cut one out of 2-3mm mild steel plate for you. Modern fibre lasers should give you a hexagon with a tolerance of no more than 0.5mm. if you then use a router table with a bearing guided cutter you can use this as a template to trim them down...

UPDATE: I didn't have as much time over the weekend to work on it but I have made some progress. One side has all the mortises and tenons cut and has been pushed together in a trial fit. There is some minor fettling still to do to make all the display faces flush and close up some hairline gaps...

UPDATE: Today I've taken all the core frame members and planed them to Finished dimensions. Some of these had warped a bit but most didn't require too much work. These stated out as Rough sawn 45x70mm and have now finished at 63x39mm. This was all done by hand. Converting an eBay burn of a...