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Luthiers often use single edged razor blades as scrapers to remove excess glue. To prevent damage to the soundboard finish, you can Sellotape over most of the razor edge, just leaving sufficient exposed to deal with the glue. Most modern acoustic guitars at this end of the price range are over...

Going from the log to the finished article and producing something that's stable and not going to warp or crack is time consuming and takes a fair bit of skill. If your board is an inch thick you will need to dry it for a year (or get it kiln dried). I don't think a warped breadboard is going...

If it is, leave her in and put the lid on.

You'll need to give her a rub down with a brass brush!

Not me! :wink:

Cyano acrylate is superglue. You need the low viscosity (thin) stuff for cracks. It helps to flex them to open the crack up a bit, so probably best to glue the soundboard cracks first, then sort the brace out. CA glue isn't any good for gap filling, so you need good contact between the surfaces.

My sincere condolences to you and your family. I have been through a bereavement recently and know how difficult it is to cope with the loss of someone so close.

I've never really had any good files, just picked them up from Aldi when they were on offer. I've also got a whole load of rusty files that I've acquired at the bottom of old toolboxes, so I thought what the hell... Now I've got a set of pretty cool old files (Thomas Turton, Nicholson, Hale...

I've found the same. I soak the tool for about an hour, then give it a gentle brush with a Brass brush before soaking again for another hour. When I take them out, give them another brush, rinse in water, then a squirt of WD40 or baby oil. It's quite addictive. I'm looking in the back of all...

I've used it on some pretty crappy examples and it's removed the lot. It's not a miracle though, it won't replace steel that has rusted away. Your really old tools may be pitted to hell under the rust and be unusable.

I have done some work with phosphoric acid, electrolysis and the chelating rust removal. Although my results aren't Quantitative, I have made the following observations: Electrolysis - easy to set up with minimal cost (old phone charger, two crocodile clips, tin can, spoon of bicarb.). Rust...

A mirror triptych (!) with taped joints so you can pass it through the hole, then open out inside.

Here's a step by step of a similar repair with some clever use of rare earth magnets: http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/Cracks/D45FBTopCrack/d45fbtopcrack.html

Agree with this ^^ The struts are called bracing (which might help you to search for information on the net). E.g. http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/repair/acoustic-guitar/braces.php http://acguitar.com/article/default.aspx?articleid=24027 If the braces are in situ, but have become loose...

Frets.com is a mine of guitar repair information. The guy there has a very creative attitude to his work. E.g. http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Structural/LongPipette/longpipette01.html...

Been playing today, but been a bit lax in taking before/after pics. Things I have noticed... 1) whatever you dip becomes warm (mix could do with diluting?) 2) copper is removed from the brass brush if you rub it wet. Copper is then deposited on the tool giving it a slightly yellow tinge. 3)...

I need to be careful, being a ginger.

I make my own hair conditioner...50 p a litre! Because I'm worth it. :D

Used to use TDI and MDI when I used to formulate 2K PU adhesives (still love the smell of ethyl acetate). Nasty itchy things. Can drop you a pm with the recipe so far. Would rather not post it up here as I have no idea if I'm treading on anyone's patent (and can't be bothered to find out really).

A bit of this and that really. EDTA which is a chelating agent ( a bit like a chemical crab!), acetic acid, sodium citrate, citric acid and some ammonium hydroxide to bring the pH up to 4 Ish so that it's not too corrosive. Nothing hazardous in there. Haven't had time to do any optimisation, so...