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I would be something of a fool to argue against Custards advice but is there an option of removing say 5 or 10 mm from your horizontals (being very careful excavating around the dovetail sockets) and then cutting some matching strips custom fitted to very tight tolerances for each shelf? This...

:D :D :D

All you have to do is buy a robot and some machinery ..... I can see the threads now as users ask 'what robot is best' :D Just to be clear from my perspective, - I think it's bow locks!

However, when you cleaned up the joint you might find it's not too bad at all. Post an 'after' shot for comparison.

I love seeing old stuff turned into something useful again, nice work. Just out of interest Olly how many hours you reckon that took?

Can somebody tell me wtf ‘democratize custom furniture building’ means?

I'm about to address the 'what do I do with all these CD's' question now that I don't actually have a 'proper' CD player! Virtually everything through IPod and Bose speaker docks or the Echo. I simply can't face just binning them (well, charity shop!) but the boss wants the space. I also can't...

An interesting thread Andy, - thank you for taking the time to write it all up. I have to say to me the top does look a little wide but maybe that’s just the angle of the camera? Other than that a stonking bit of work! Like you I prefer the unstained look. Be interesting to see how it performs...

I’ve finished some quite large pieces of oak furniture with danish oil and had no discolouration issues at all. Never used it outside but then don’t consider it an outdoor finish.

As much as I despise the man he's right. You need to delve quite deeply in the psychology of accidents to fully understand some of the concepts but people now walk away from car accidents that would have been fatalities in years gone by. This does have an effect on the 'operator'. Same issue...

I would never go to the effort of washing out a cloth after using danish or any other finish, it simply isn’t worth it. I use old sheet cut up into squares and then like Pete spread it out to dry then bin.

Tear out at the front or back? I use a spacer at the back (doesn’t have to be very thick) and get no tear out at all. If you’re getting it at the front then all I can think of is blunt cutters?

Not any more you don't. I used to find this strange but there is an option to not have to do this.

What utter cobblers! I fail to see how you can draw such a conclusion from such limited information. Jacob, - you are as usual just a wind up merchant.

Second that, - it works really well!

But it's such good fun to have queues of tradesmen behind you tutting and sighing as I debate why they should have my email address! :D :D

I've just carried out repairs to a dining chair for a friend who wanted me to use epoxy. I refused to use epoxy on the grounds that if further failure were to occur then the chair would basically be destroyed as the epoxy would mean the wood around it would 'shatter'. I used cascamite on the...

Easy peasy, - bung in/coat with loads of chemicals and away you go! I'm just wondering what forces are involved in 'condensing' wood to a fifth of it's thickness :shock: :shock: Some interesting furniture designs possible with thin, strong timber!

That would be my preferred option. Work your way back to the bedroom supplies and try and find the main 'source'. This way you'll have less capping to do and you can strip out any redundant pipework at the same time. Less potential for leaks in the future!

Last time I fitted a laminate worktop I hired the jig, - not a huge expense. If you’ve not used one before try and have a practice, particularly if the worktops are out of square. Be aware though that you will probably need a longer straight cutter for your router. You can hire one with the jig...