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Slip on locknuts are invaluble in any situation where you use studding, in particular with the Woodrat mitre box. A joined-together pair of "nuts", which can be slipped onto threaded rod at any point, and locked in position with half a turn (it is not necessary to slip the nut over the end of...

You may have to look a bit further east, Deklan; I remember seeing a Laguna "table saw" reviwed in FW that was made in Bulgaria. A budget Rojek? Solid but agricultural?

Bear in mind narrow blades tend to wander in the kerf a bit (and cut straight but with a slight wobble) - you need a bit of room in the kerf for the blade if you are cutting curly curves, but it does allow some wander in a straight cut. A 3/4" or more blade will not wander like a 1/4". Thus a...

Have a good read at www.aldel.co.uk where you'll find some useful advice on all sorts re setting up a woodrat, written by users. Whilst marked for a 625, you may find the mfr's marks give only an 'adequate' central bit position, and Alan's site tells you how to get it spot on for any router.

Woodrat's own site carrries only a shortform manual; the full version is available for download from the US site below: http://www.thecraftsmangallery.com/docu ... nual_9.pdf other stuff can be acessed from their page showing woodrat machines, which they are soon discontinuing in favour of...

The world looks madder by the day...why do so few people appear to wish to take any responsibility for their actions (or their childrens') Unfortunately a lack of disclaimer (ie Rat Poison..poisonous may cause death if ingested) is likely to lead to a succesful damages claim, now we're in a no...

There's a plough/combination bloke in Australia (Duvall?)who says their blades need a relief grind up the sides, important for good results, he says. Haven't tried it yet but it's mentally marked down for trial. Could be worth a try on the sides of a shoulder plane blade? (lack of relief may...

Most cheap wet/dry vacs have motors cooled by the main airflow. The filter gets a bit clogged and cuts the throughput and then your motor burns out. You need a vac with separate motor cooling for this sort of work; it need not be expensive - Lidl had one with bypass cooling (and automatic...

Any wetstone grinder, (even the Tormek!!) requires the new wheel to be trued before work - no make will work properly 'straight out of the box'. That applies to dry grinders too. The wheels are refractory products - baked like a house brick - and all will distort a bit in the kiln, and so need...

Any news about Bob Wearing?

Digit's the way to go! 'Er indoors made mine with a sort of internal skirt to guide dust into bin so dust doesn't clog just under the bag/bin clip.

All sorts of useful stuff here, have a good poke about! http://www.itwifeuro.com/Training/Techn ... ok-ups.asp

Blimey! Cross dressed woodworkers across the pond! :shock: Where do you get your splinterproof nylons?

Agreed, wouldn't rip treewood on mine, use the bandsaw instead. But a very long 8' table/fence plus roller extension allows me to dimension single handed 8x4 sheets I couldn't do otherwise. Have a look here: http://www.mrsawdust.com/ This bloke was really Mr Dewalt in the US, and his book is...

That fine Mr Charlesworth helpfully suggests (a) once you've decided on the correct height for the rest, cut a block of mdf etc as a wheel/rest spacer, so the rest can always be repositioned at same height above wheel. (b) forget the rest leg-screw adjuster, set grinding angle by adjusting...

New grinder = new wheels, and new wheels need dressing to make them perfectly circular and concentric to the spindle. Once dressed, vibration will markedly reduce. Note that the wheel will probably still move from side to side (don't dress the side of the wheel!) Remember too, unblanaced wheels...

The main grumble about this style of wet wheel grinder comes from the mess they make when grinding blades wider than the wheel (no problem for wood turners). Otherwise, brilliant! I have a Scheppach 10" as it was only £165, well made but jigs not as good as Tormek. However the better made Tormek...

My (US based) bro - in law swears by this stuff, didn't know you could get it here. Even if it is about 6x the price he pays.....

Router bases by mfr. are usually ~ 2mm paxolin (directplasticsonline.co.uk)Why not use a small bearing guided router bit, with the old base as the template (glue a bit of paxolin over the damage and smooth edge so it blends with existing outline) Gives a perfect result. Then use old base as...

I have both Ax & Tilgear Titemark clones, the LN mortice wheels, shaft extension, and replacement wheels, which all fit OK. Ax version may not now have SS shaft as it says in catalogue (early ones did, later plated to reduce cost they said) I think Tilgear version is all stainless, but ring and...