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I'd make a router jig and use a monster straight cutter to get the first 50 - 60mm of hole done. You could drill out most of the waste first on a drill press. Then I'd sit down, open a bottle or two for a good long think-drink* about how to do the rest. *Think-drink is a technique espoused by...

Piccys as promised: PM me if you're interested.

I think I can help. I've got a board that's about 160mm wide, 1165mm long and approx 5 - 7mm thick. I'll put some pieces up in an hour or so and if you want it then it's all yours. Since you're only in South London it's probably best if you collect it (I'm in Tunbridge Wells - about 40 mins...

I use Record T Bars for heavy stuff (staircases, big thick panels etc) and then I've got a couple of dozen of these from Rutlands: another two dozen of these from Axi (the earlier version with orange/red heads): Also in the armoury is a stash (20 or so) of the Irwin black and blue jobbies...

Staircase - manually set out (rod stylee) Windows/doors etc are always set from a rod Furniture - sometimes a rod, sometimes from SU, sometimes MIUAIGA (Make It Up As I Go Along), sometimes a combo of all three. It all depends on the project, the budget, the lunar phase, etc etc.

+1. Also I think sometimes a nicely cleaned up plane can just feel nicer to use. Not necessarily always but sometimes.

+1

If it's for a client I think you should start again. Selling them a door that's been effectively bodge fixed is a bit naughty IMHO.

And if you live in Kent be prepared to wait for nine months for your certificate. There's a huge backlog at the moment

Essentially thats a pair of Bi-folding doors. Normally these would have a track, top, bottom or both and a pin or roller fixed to the second door would slide in this track. I can't see why your proposal wouldn't work but I'd check the weight of the doors first and make sure you hang them on...

You could also try out an SDS wood chisel. Mikita and bosch both make them. Funnily enough I'm about to order one so I'll let you know how accurate it is once fitted and bouncing around on the end of a cordless SDS drill. Also, you can cut mortices with a normal chainsaw - just very carefully...

From the website for Tanalith E: "Is TANALISED timber safe to use in children's playgrounds? TANALISED Timber is safe to use for structures in and around children's play areas. With regard to any concerns that the children may 'chew' or 'eat' the treated timber, we have to conduct safety...

Well spotted. My 11 year old son pointed out that my pic was sooooo 1980's and I needed to keep up and 'stay relevant'.

I just watched DW's video (on my lunch break) and saw how quickly he did the job, especially getting the iron back in use. Now I need to buy a grinder. The thing that's always put me off is that I've read/heard about damaging the iron by overheating (I know NOTHING about metal - I mean...

Interesting issue this one. Personally I've always felt that people UNDERstate the time required to sort out a plane. Maybe I'm extremely slow, but I've never managed to put a new primary bevel on an old iron in any less than 20/30 minutes (assuming that it was chipped/dinged and totally...

:lol: :lol:

Treated tantalised softwood would be the best bet. The tanalith won't harm bunny if it chews on it.

Personally I've had enough of fettling planes to get them to work. I've a number of old stanleys and records and once I've done the work on them they all perform extremely well. The problem is time as AJB said. I simply don't have the time to spend on them. I've currently got a Stanley 51...

For site work the hose sleeve is the only viable option in my experience. In the workshop I've got a hangy suspendy tracky slidey arrangement (or I did until I just re-arranged my benches - it'll need re-fitting now) I've f*&ked up so many cuts on site due to snags it drove me to have a proper...

I'd give it a quick skim on both sides in the thicknesser so that you can see what you've got as Custard says. Rough sawn boards can sometimes hide some awful defects/surprises, as I've recently found to my cost with some Walnut boards I bought for a staircase.