Search results

I bought a couple of replacements for my old 6095D 9.6 volt driver and a much bigger drill impact drill driver about a year ago now and they have been okay but they don't get heavy use. It was either that or bin them, the genuine batteries are just too expensive to justify buying them when you...

Jesus! Hasn't anyone heard of a datum line? Run a level line around the whole room at a say 1200 high, use this to establish the highest point on the floor, the level of the heads of windows, cills, door heads and check all connecting floor threshold levels. Absolutely establish, what...

Hi Bob, I used Liberon finishing oil on my new oak tops about ten years ago, I have re touched them once and I have not found one stain anywhere. The area around the sink is as good as day one ( I just had a quick look) This was recommended to my by a mate of mine who is a worktop specialist of...

Roof batten say 19x38 would be better and cheaper. 12mm is not much of an air gap.

Lets hope so, but wise men are becoming incredibly rare :)

Fantastic stuff Wallace, just like everyone else, I love your threads on these lovely old machines mate. I think you are probably creating a lot of new machine nerds here, real works of art, love em! Steve.

Just built a router fence out of some old bits of 18 and 25mm mdf and had all the usual problems with screws splitting the ends. I'd been reading the excellent Nikis jigs thread and remembered him saying that superglue could 'turn balsa wood into iron'! So, I drilled pilot holes and put a drop...

How about a small fixed louver inset panel with some sort of sliding seal plate?

BLISS!! Works a treat. God bless you sir, that has saved me so much poncing about... Steve.

Cheers Ian, I'll give that a try, that would be dead handy. Steve.

Hi, anyone know what the base plate screw size is for a Dewalt 621 router? I want to add a thicker base plate and the existing 10mm long screws are too short so I will need say 15mm instead. They measure about 3.5/4mm X 10mm but I cant tell what thread etc they are so if anyone actually knows...

Its the left handed pencils with the lead at the top that get my goat, bloody stupid idea.

I would fabricate the missing bit out of a colour matched epoxy lump by rough shaping (set the epoxy on clingfilm on the metal arm) and then sanding and nadgering it until it was a spot on fit. Then carefully super glue/epoxy it in place. I would avoid trying to fill it in situ,too easy to get...

As above, this is a fantastic site https://www.youtube.com/user/TipsfromaShipWright I love the guy, watch every video on there, you will learn so much.

You could email this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vIVSfXg61I and ask him what his special bit is called, this man is a fantastic advert for old school hand skills and tools. The sexy bit he uses in this video may be custom made though??

The Air shield pro is like trying to balance a pizzed tortoise on your head, I just could not get on with it.

Anywhere that needs to be a watertight joint I did by using an aluminum strip about 20mm wide x 4mm thick and laid this on top of the liner material and screwed through this at 15cm centers. No way that is going to leak and to date, mine is as good as the day I fitted it. It's the best/simplest...

Just use a good pond liner. I did this about ten years ago on my workshop roof of about 12 x 5 mts. let it flop over the edges of the roof and cut it back after you have fitted fascia boards. I didn't stick mine down and just laid it over a breather membrane. It has worked a treat, dead cheap...

Seriously, not knowing much about restoration of metal things, would it not be possible to honeycomb the surrounding areas of the crack with say 1/16th holes and grind down the front and back surfaces and then fill with an epoxy filler, maybe reinforced with an appropriate alloy swarf or...

:idea: Glue some tin foil over it and bollok a nice thick coat of hammerite over that. Piece of pizz 8)