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One thing to note with that kind of large router table design is that you really do have to take a lot more care in keeping it perfectly flat. Any small amount of sag will increase error when routing long pieces across such a long table. It's a bit like a mitre station with extension fences on...

I cheated.

What have you named her? She looks like a Mandy to me. Or perhaps a Terry

I can't answer your question, but Rutlands has some new dowel jigs you might be interested in. https://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+power-too ... igs+c03103 This one looks interesting, although the design decision to only allow two holes at a time seems poor, .. and only one hole if you're doing...

An Electrician did a video about installing an extraction system and he specifically said not to put the wire on the outside as it won't do anything (has to go inside). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=812Ez9OT0As https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oFCOlYXx5c

Thoughts on spraying router bits with WD-40 Dry Lube (or any other dry lube)? Good idea?

I don't know why I added 'bench hook type' to that question. I guess what I meant to say was, how often do you find yourself making new ones? on average, how many cuts do you get out of one before making a new one? Do you only use it with saws that have little to no set?

How long will that bench hook type last you until it's been widened too much by saw kerf?

I like to use this stuff : https://www.axminster.co.uk/hermes-self ... m-ax834464 Not the highest of grits, but it lasts a long time. If you want higher grits, them look at the 3M stuff.

This may be of interest https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HMneS7nrsE

Don't shoot the messenger :p I think I'll stick with mechanicl means :)

I'm sure you've all heard of this trick to stop things slipping around when clamping up. However, my initial thoughts were it sounds like a bad idea to be mixing chemicals like that. Anyway, I tried it out and can confirm it does work. But can also confirm it reacts with the glue in what looks...

The flat part (the back) runs along your reference surface (your square). Its got two bevels so you can run it on the left or the right of your reference. Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

Nah, you have to use a fence along your workpiece. Got the idea from the following video : https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AWciGGqoWSU Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

Grooving plane. Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

I think people tend to underestimate how accurate you can be with a pencil. I use a 2H that is always well sharpened, and produces a line thinner than a 0.5mm mechanical pencil. As long you cut on the right side of the line, I think you'd need a magnifying glass to notice any difference between...

Yeah - thats why I added the tape. They probably do it to make you be more careful with it - but it was very umcomfortable being that small.

£10 from Workshop Heaven. Excellent quality. https://www.workshopheaven.com/workshop ... 100mm.html (Taped handle is a modification) Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk

I see where you're coming from, but if you're starting out, you don't want to be dimensioning material to begin with. Just like you don't want to have to learn to sharpen before ever using a tool that requires sharpening. You kind of want to be provided with a sharp plane/chisel to begin with...

I feel ya Garno. It's hugely frustrating not to have someone in person to help. The biggest frustration for me personaly, is not having square/flat/true material to begin with, which just exasperates the issues.