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Not turned a pen for ages. I have some ali bar which I was given. it has sat in my blank draw for quite some time OK like many of my blanks So Ali on a gold Tempest. I was going to go for the full shine but decided it would have been just too much with the gold so went with a brushed effect, I...

I would not normally recommend sets of tools as some will end up not being used But having said that I was fortunate enough to have won a set of Robert Sorby tools and found that all in there are of use. If you look at the link that CHJ has linked to his first post gives a list of useful tools...

Honing on most turning tools is not needed. But it can be useful for other chisels in woodworking especially carving tools

Who is this Stewart guy anyway :lol: :lol: :lol:

The post I quoted to did not make that clear and could be confusing to a novice that is why a hopefully made that clear to them

Bushes do come in sets each set is designed for each type of pen, if you buy 10 different pens he likelihood is that you will need 10 sets of different bushes. A one-piece kit will require a set of two bushes as a two-part kit will be a set of three or even 4 bushes. As can be seen in Chas's...

I have both Robert Sorby Patriot and the Versa chuck and find both very good. The Versa chuck I have jaw carriers which enables me to use both Axminster and Soby jaws on it as well as other manufacturers jaws

I can't remember the last time I brought any bushes for the pens I turn as I use tapered bushes and the turn each end down to the size using callipers touch wood not yet had any bad fitting components to blank. I put the bushes on the mandrel and use a pen saver this prevents any chance of the...

Easy to turn as long as you get both sides the same and balanced

I am sure this will aid a lot of people as many of your posts do Chas. Great to see people sharing their knowledge so others can benefit. I can see the Record Power square ones having a better grip as more of them is able to be in contact with the surface they are holding

Looks like a steady for turning long spindles to prevent whip. The V cut outs however look a little rough at the edges.

Last week emptied a shed broke it down and replaced with new shed refitted the shelves and put everything back in. followed by the weekend I am now totally shattered. So a lazy day today

I have to confess that I have been looking at a metalworking lathe and milling machine to build working models in metal. I will still be woodturning. I need to look at a much larger workshop to fit it all in

Well, that is what I have had to put up with went to a steam rally and set up one of our marquees. And as I keep telling the wife I am not going to take up knitting. While I was there picked up a few things for my workshop. A second-hand compressor which broke the bank and some measuring...

This came from some trees that were felled less than 100ft away from my house there was a mix of Field maple, Oak and Ash and they even delivered it and carried it into my back garden :lol: :lol: :lol:

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Glad to have my lathe back up and running, it seems strange as I knew by the sound how it was behaving but now the motor is so quiet. Started out with a very uninteresting piece of wood and was going to use black stain to enhance the grain that is there but did not get the desired effect so went...

Just a note on what Paul mentioned when I do use my cole jaws I tend to bring up the tailstock for added security otherwise I will jam chuck a piece for taking the foot off.

If you buy the standard c jaws this also allows the use of things like screw chuck, backplates, morse taper and even eccentric chuck.

As already stated it is one of those things that you buy as you need. Start with the basic jaw size I believe it is the c jaws with axminster and as you progress buy to your needs. The jaws that I use most are small jaws to hold things like pen blanks and very small spindle pieces, I have three...