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Come off it, Colin, you'd really love that to happen just for the challenge! (From one who for many years drove a Howard Bullfinch with a Villiers 2-stroke engine. First "proper" job I did on a very poor clone of an early Myford was to modify the crankcase of the Villiers to take proper seals.)

... and through it all, the scarred and battered solid metal guides on the 352 just keep doing their job perfectly!

(Wrote a reply earlier today, but the internet connection crashed before I could send it). Anyway, thanks for all the suggestions and for the opportunity to have a rant! B&Q in Aberdeen were helpful, but basically said to do it all on line. Tried their website and just couldn't make sense of...

Is it that I'm stoopid (quite likely, given the passing of the years) or do the various retailers not want to sell just the carcases, without doors etc.? Following a thread on here from a year or so ago, I'd identified Magnet, Howdens and the ubiquitous sheds as possible sources. Haven't got a...

Had one of those, but couldn't get on with it at all. Find the "pistol grip" style much easier to use. Maybe you found my old one......

Almost certainly for letter drills. I've got complete sets of letter and number metalworking bits, which used to be useful because they were often very close to metric sizes before I got a complete set of those/.

Not much use to the OP, but a "cutlery box" was one of the first complete items we made in junior school woodwork back in about 1950. Basically just four sides joined with open M&T at each corner and a divider morticed into the ends. Though I say it myself, mine was coming on nicely until...

I guess this thread has more than run its course, judging by the sniping which has begun - but at least sh****ning hasn't been mentioned. Just a few additional thoughts from sitting looking at the various doors in situ (and trying to take my mind off morning session with oncologist!). Clearly...

Had an Avon for a good few years. Seriously underrated lathe, IMHO. Was going to put inverter drive on it, but then bought a Mystro instead (because it shared nose thread with the Super 7 metal lathe). If you can get the inverter, then any foot mounted 3p motor of about 1hp would be suitable...

Another +1 for the B&D powerfile. Used one on a rocking horse build when my nerve failed with the Arbortech! I THINK Lidl have had a similar beast on special offer occasionally, but the B&D wasn't too expensive 15 years ago!

How were the midgies?...

If you gave a bit more of a hint as to where you live, it's possible that there are forum members nearer to you who could help?

Interesting discussion. My own view is that calling the stuff solid when, as someone has said, it's 10% glue is certainly misleading to the uninitiated, and allows for undercutting of makers using real solid stuff. BUT, putting on my Greenpeace hat, laminating/building up and veneering does...

Not being funny, but it sounds like a job for hacksaw and file. Unless the Record version uses a similar part, in which case, they might be worth a try.

Picked up a similar Marples from somewhere round here; it went to Tools for Selfreliance. Just couldn't see the point.

Upgrading our 1999 kitchen to take account of extension and being my usual cheapskate self am using secondhand "Shaker Oak" doors etc from Gumtree/ebay. Got a really nice set of expensive but proper solid oak ones from Inverness, and another set, advertised as solid oak from further south...

For wooden guides, you need lignum vitae, which is effectively self-lubricating. I used them on a Kity saw that preceded my Startrite and they were fine. You say you are in "Scotland" - it's a big place! If you are anywhere near Aberdeen pm me as I have some bits of lignum lying around.

Hmmm. The reason I mentioned the varnish is that (apart from, IMHO, it looks awful!) is that it tends to crack, peel or wear off and it's quite difficult to match it piecemeal. I suspect the only way to get a uniform finish would be to strip the whole thing and start again, probably with a wax...

Most of what follows has already been said, but this was my reply from our family automotive glazing specialist. I can't think of anything that would be really good at blocking UV and affordable in those kinds of sizes. Plastics tend to absorb UV and turn yellow - so protecting the stuff...

Don't know about the UV blocking properties of Acrylic or other plastics; you can get "museum" glass which is supposed to prevent fading, but it's not cheap and not all glass suppliers will get it. Will query suitable materials with my family glass expert!