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Unless you are unbelievably lucky, you'll never exactly match the existing grain, timber just isn't reproducible like that. I'm with Dangermouse 2nd, choose a piece that is the nearest you can find for grain spacing and direction, make the best join you can, ideally parallel to or diagonal to...

I'm lucky with a final salary pension (Those were the days) but have some ISA investments with Hargreaves Lansdown. According to Which, they are not the cheapest, but do seem pretty reliable.

Might have one or two going spare. Will have a look.

Dunno, but if I was a ram/bull calf, I'd run like heck!!

Great idea. Will try that. Has to be better than trying to clean the gluey stuff that doesn't keep the pad on, but does stick hard to the floor!

May be a few days, as I only fire up the computer which runs the scanner occasionally. Do you have any specific questions; I've had a 4-speed Mystro for probably 10 years now, so familiar with most of its oddities.

If you can wait a day or two, I've got an original manual and can scan it for you.

Basically, it's a plain, keywayed axle, with a pressed steel 10 inch wheel on it, held in place with big circlip. No idea when/if it's ever been off, certainly not in the 12 years I've had the machine. If/when it comes off (no, when the **** thing comes off) there's going to be a good slather...

Tried all those except phosphoric acid! It's actually now half off, with the aid of a ball-joint splitter from a new local classic car restorer, but it's *%!?^ stubborn! Have had to leave it for a while with other priorities, but the machine is now needed, so the pressure is on. Am tempted to...

Ah, but what about the WordPerfect that was on CPM??

Fergie 307, those are brilliant instructions! Hope the OP can follow them and win. Only one suggestion to add, local agricultural engineers can also be helpful with removing bearings, though their kit usually starts one size too big for drills and the like. Don't ask me how I know this! While...

Think there is still one of those, with one wedge left, in my box!

Sigh to you too! You have to question, though, why it is necessary to have such short obsolescence periods when for most of us, our computers are only doing exactly what our desktops were doing in the 1990s, but possibly more slowly! My ire was really piqued looking at my older backup hard...

Just one word of warning to the OP (though you probably know this). Make sure you are standing firmly when using the drill with a large bit - if it jams, you'll be the one spinning round!

My guess is that at least the bearings and seals on that beast would be standard off the shelf items, and not too difficult to replace. Better than things like disk drives and computers, which are obsolete and unrepairable almost before they are out of the box!

Still use one of those from time to time. Always seems that it's more important to have three hands than the instructions!

Occasionally. I do bits of antique restoration, and my rubric is to use Scotch glue if repairing old glued joints, but modern glues if it's repairing breaks in the actual timber. Seems rational!

First "thing" we made on a welding course 40 years ago was something quite like that! It's still lying around somewhere and comes in handy occasionally, if I can find it.

I'd go for spalted beech too. The later pics show (IMHO) the typical ray pattern of beech, and can't recall ever seeing that sort of dark spalting with holly.

An observation/question, based on a very small sample, so would be interested to know if it is true. Do older, heavier cast iron motors have a lower start current for a given output than do modern Ali-bodied versions. Seems to be true among the machines in my workshop.