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Jim I wouldn't bother, use your money towards the materials for the build. Watch the episode a few times and make the rest up to suit your individual needs, thats what i'm doing (slowly). Have a look here: another-new-yankee-style-router-table-t61948.html Mark

yes 0.3mm would be about right. Mark

Hi The degree of adjustment per whole turn will depend on whether your bar is standard or fine thread pitch if you want to work it out. See here http://www.raygirling.com/metthrpt.htm I've being doing something similar, though its not my idea, stolen from Steve M, thanks Steve...

that'll be the dark art I previously refered to! :) Mark

Hi I don't think it will work. I think you will struggle to build walls straight that way, I doubt all the timber will be square. The timber will warp and shrink. Water will also penetrate through the joins. I would build a frame, put feather edge rather than ship lap on the outside as its...

Needs insulating first. Oil filled rad works for me Mark

Hi I did exactly what you are suggesting, mortice lock buried in the style. I didnt rebate the 2 gates, I just put a cover strip on the outside to hide the join as it were. I get a bit of seasonal movement but not enough to effect the locking (and unlocking). If you do do a rebate, make sure...

The Records on my old school woodwork bench have ply faces, never been a problem Mark

Brings back great memories. Great part of the world, been travellng over there for nearly 20 years now and never tire of it. You picked some great places to go. Mark

Would it? Wouldn't I need to cut the air leaving the router box rather than it entering it to increase the suck from the fence? Extraction is a bit of a dark art to me. Thanks for the positive comments Mark

Yes I was going to cut holes like that in the Perspex. How did you decide how big to make them or is it a bit of a guess? I like the idea of being able to close up the pipe to the box to allow more suck to the fence, good idea Mark

Andy that's very generous but I've already bought a piece off eBay . Thanks anyway I had been wondering about putting vents in the Perspex. Mark

No :) Mark

Theres not that much more to do. I've cut the door pieces already. Main thing left is the dust extraction. I've been putting that off as I need to sort my workshop dust extraction generally. Other than that just a few bits and bobs. Thanks for looking Mark

The micro adjuster pieces cut. Theory is that one turn of the bolt produces 1mm of travel. One part is fastened to each base and can be slid over each other by turning the bolt. Nut embedded in the middle Put together Each half fastened to each of the bases. And the bristol lever...

This is what it looks like at the back 2 knobs to release and tighten eack fence cheek 2 knobs to clamp down the bases, one does the lower base to the table, one releases the upper base when using the micro adjuster.

The top piece is screwed to the fence from behind The sliding cheeks run on t bolts with large knobs on the back

Next the 3 pieces cut for the front of the fence and laminated. 2 adjustable fence cheeks and a fixed top piece with t track for feather boards etc. Did have one minor problem with chipping the corner of the laminate. Sods law its on the front.

The upper base and fence screwed and glued and support blocks added

The bolts through the blocks will clamp the lower base to the table top The bolts outside these will allow the upper base to slide independently of the lower when using the micro adjust, then lock it all together agin