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Be careful...I asked this some time ago and as you can see by the end of the attached thread, I ended up buying a metalworking lathe and making my own. Yet another slope to beware of! https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post ... tml#271503 Not wanting to do Phil out of any business, but its a...

I seem to recall reading a post on Konrad Sauer's blog about the Shelix. He thought it was good. Nothing like that is widely available in the UK, so I doubt many on here will have an opinion, although from what I've read they are meant to be good. Ed

Well to those who said they are fine on a slow speed, how right you are. Just tried all sizes on the slower speed setting (which also has higher torque) and they work well. Isn't it ridiculous that we get so used to just pushing the drill trigger full on, that I for one didn't stop to think...

I like that solution Steve. Might be nicking that one when I get round to it. Ed

I assume they're made for power drills though? Ed

I bought a set of 6 Irwin Blue Groove stub augers recently, not for fine woodworking but for boring holes through joists and the like. I've just started another bathroom at Sutton Towers and thought some new bits would make things quicker. Turns out that they bite so quickly and aggressively...

The case mentioned sounds like Silicosis, but my understanding is that it is caused by regular and prolonged contact with silica dust, not casual exposure. On the wider subject of dust, it is something that worries me. I use extraction, an air cleaner and a Trend Airace but even so we are all...

I don't think its that bad. I bought the small squirty bottle about 5 years ago (admittedly was probably cheaper then) and its still going - you don't need to use a lot. Ed

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-CMT- ... -21107.htm Here it is Ed

CMT make a cleaner for removing resin from cutting tools, which seems pretty good to me when I have used it. Regards preventing the build up I'm not sure theres much you can do if the species is resinous, I suppose the thing is to clean regularly with something like the CMT cleaner to prevent...

Cutting by hand and transferring from the first piece to the second, as you would with a dovetail, is exactly how I did my toolbox. Working in ply is fine, so long as its reasonable quality Birch. In my view this method is quick and easy. Ed

I just had a look at my saw to see if the same could happen, which I am pleased to say it could not. The knife has the L shaped slot, as it should. The other thing I notice though, is that even with the blade fully up, the front of the guard hits the table miles before it could contact the top...

Glad your injuries are not too bad Karl, that is a frightening experience I imagine. Just so I understand, did the guard and riving knife stay together, but the knife pulled out of its mounting on the saw? Ed

Well kudos to Matthew for his efficient delivery, but I think I'll stick with my LN chisels and Blue Spruce parers. I'm not sure I could be bothered with the flattening. Ed

Something to declare Karl?!

I did give you the thin spanner for holding the arbor - I'd use it as the risk of chipping a tooth is high using other means (DAMHIKT) Ed

This is my mobile toolbox and contents; https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post ... tml#421008 Ed

Beautiful Pedder, what does a saw like that sell for? Ed

I like a lot of the Bridge City stuff, but this looks needlessly complex to me. I'm sure its really well made, but good engineering is partly about simplification and that blade clamp is just way over the top. I also don't get why the adjuster is shaped like a plug cutter? Ed

Anyone have a good source for cast handwheels? I fancy replacing the plastic ones on my saw with something metal. Ed