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Perhaps this might be of interest. Nothing wastes more space than the metal stand under the cross cut saw. This has wheels at the back only and the handles slide out to enable the machine to be sited as required. Mike.

I have an extractor that whips up the chippings easily but the top of the white melamine top is normally well covered with "usefull off cuts", I've moved them out of shot to avoid confusion. As a result I look much tidier than is really the truth.

The photo shows a purpose made steel stand and storage cupboard, the flat steel plate beneath the lathe bed is for use with a copying gadget if I ever get round to making it. The cupboard is not fixed to the stand and either item can be moved if required.

I always buy plastic bags that are about 300mm to high for the machine, this allows you to make the inward turndown previously mentioned and gives you plenty of material to tie off the top when it's full. The other advantage is that you can fill nearly to the top and reduce the number of bag...

I can't agree that "everyone" uses this material , certain so called conservation officers are of the opinion that replacement joinery is never needed and everything can be repaired. Filling rot holes with chemical filler is just a bodge not a viable repair. If you hate patching windows why not...

It looks as if the vice I payed three pounds ten shillings for 50 years ago is older than I am! Mike.

I don't think it's going to be easy to date it since my 50 year old 53 with a quick release bears exactly the same number. Mike.

The two HP fox machine from Poolewood looks like good value at £199 plus vat

In use the height of the bridge guard should be adjusted so that the workpiece just fits beneath it . The whole of that driving belt and the pulleys must be enclosed in a substantial guard before the machine can be used. Ideally the block must come to a stop within ten seconds of the off switch...

The critical ingredient is moisture, if the steel fixings are into dried oak as in internal furniture, no serious corrosion should occur. In your instance non corroding fixings are preferable. My knowledge of stainless grades is limited but I suggest that you visit a local boat chandlers, they...

My preference would be for through wedged m & t followed in decending order by blind m & t and in desperate times dowel construction. The dowelled are the cheap end of the market and at one time also featured finger jointed stiles and rails. Like most tradesmen of my aquaintance, I would never...

The one third rule is more applicable to instances where the two components are the same thickness. This appears to refer to apron rails being mortised into legs.

Keep it simple! Drill a correct size hole in a block of wood using a drill press or mortiser, cramp the block to your workpiece and you are sorted with a free guide block. The same thinking can be applied to pocket screwing, biscuit jointers and other largely useless gadgets who's only real...

Why not solve the problem by using a bare faced tenon, the work will be reduced by half.

Correct use of the bridge guard make this gadget and push sticks redundant.

The lead flashing is normally inserted into the mortar joint about 25 /30 mm and secured with wedges of lead. The wedges are made by folding up off cuts of lead sheet to make the required thickness of material to jam tight when driven into the joint with a blunt drift. They are driven below the...

I agree on the plastic container use, I would however like to confirm that my remark about never having seen a failure only relates to timbers for which it is suitable, it's not suitable for oily timbers like Teak and Iroko. I have never used Accoya, I'm very wary about the possible risks from...

I have been using Cascamite for a huge length of time, I always mix as suggested in two stages and work by eye to get a mix about the same as Yorkshire pudding batter! I don't think the final strength is affected very much by small variations in consistency. I buy 3 kilo containers from...

Hello Richard This will probably cause a bit of protest but if you think about it, external furniture is only coated to improve the appearance. The so called preservative coatings can't get to where they are really needed, in this case it's the joint between the rungs and strings of the ladder...

Much easier then, the winders and main staircase can be assembled in the usual way and the outer strings secured with temporary props befor securing them to the studding.