Search results

The convention is to hang the door to cloak the room when opened, not a frequent question since the light switch is normally placed in such a position that reversing the door would cause inconvenience. My servants are very discrete as well.

Cascamite powdered resin, it's cheap, totally waterproof ,sets like rock, and doesn't slide out of place when jointing boards. Also has a long open time and a shelf life of years if kept dry.

That's the kind of effect you get if the saw is sharpened with a worn saw file, one face not cutting well. If it is it's the worst case I've ever seen! It's possible to reshape the teeth but not that easy to do from that condition. It would be far easier to drop it in at the saw doctors for a recut.

Expanding foam ear plugs.

Teak is the choice material for this sort of use but the price will be eye watering. I suggest you look at marine suppliers who make to size.

https://www.canalworld.net/forums/index ... nsion-003/ o This is what can happen if you dont allow enough expansion room. This is one of 25 failed doors on a narrowboat built by someone with no idea of the winter moisture levels involved. Mike.

You could consider making the side grooves deeper, say 15mm and leaving a gap of 5mm either side. The panels and rails between them will expand and contract, if you don't allow enough space the power of expanding timber is huge.

I had the spray which as you say reduced the gag reaction, it's not a pleasant procedure but not painful either. All over in a few minutes with no after effects.

I would prefer veneered ply for the risers, mostly because I try to avoid MDF whenever possible. I'm cheered by the mention of a carpet runner, I have a prejudice against stairs without a nonslip finish since a painful fall down about five treads while visiting a couple of friends who resided in...

The book has a few little quirks as well, the illustration on page 431 shows the risers grooved into the top face of the treads! I don't think that would work very well and assembly would be tricky on a normal stair, I've wondered if this makes the mitred risers easier to fit. My concern would...

Hi Mike I suggest a quick look at Riley's Manual of carpentry & Joinery chapter 16. It shows traditional examples from both ends of the spectrum, from good quality to stately home standards. It shows two ways of doing the mitre you have already seen. Pages 431 & 438 seem to show the extremes...

I have a single 75mm drum for my spindle moulder. I think the best feature is the use of your own sander sheets rather than the need to buy and stock sleeves.

To be safe it needs deflectors or lmited cutter projection, it's not a case of how far the cutters project through the table.

Just a touch dangerous ! No limited projection.

Batch production can make woodworking less enjoyable but can also enhance the experience in some cases. Some items are difficult to make at an economic price if made as required, eg one at a time. I make furniture and fittings for narrow boats and Dutch barges, some of the frequently used...

I am certain that MDF gives off fumes particularly when it's fresh off the stack at the merchants. Some years back I collected a single sheet in the back of a transit van and noted that it smelled very strongly during the half hour journey. It did the same to my little timber store which was...

Ive just put the brain in gear! A machine of that size and quality will have a table roller, that's the one set in the bottom bed directly beneath the out feed roller, it is adjustable and should be set very slightly above the top of the table to take some of the weight of the planed material...

A little candle wax rubbed on, or any wax furniture polish will do. Sprays containing silicone are not good in my opinion and in the long term make matters worse. I suggest that you check that the feed rollers are able to move up and down the full distance. They can get packed tight with...

If you look at the GGF rules, all glazing below 800 mm up from the floor must be toughened glass.

I would expect that the most economic timber would be unsorted grade pine, that's the best grade stocked by most merchants. I suggest 100mm wide for the stiles and top rail, with 200mm for the bottom rail.(finished sizes) That would allow you to rip down 225mm wide to make the stiles. It's the...