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These days I only buy Cascamite in 3K tubs since I don't use a lot of it. I have never known any to go off in any way, even when bought in sacks and stored without any special precautions other than keeping it dry. As mentioned by others above I habitually break off cuts of edge jointed material...

Cascamite is as good as it ever was! I've been using it for nearly sixty years is now but never on Iroko, aforamosia or teak. They contain oils which mean you must use two pack epoxy glues. Foaming polyeurathane claims to be suitable but I don't trust it. Ignor the claims that you can degease...

The large free standing machines I have used have all been fitted with an attached chain grinder. The chain being removed, sharpened and then refitted. Your local saw doctor or sharpening service would be my suggestion.

The true tragedy of the mobile phone is similar to the CB radio craze of years past, the owners of the equipment have very little of interest or intelligence to say to one another. I have a pay as you go that cost £25 to buy and I spend about £20 per year on top up cards. I have an aquaintance...

. Why not the proper tool for a good finish? A badger plane. Much better if the finish surface needs to be good.

Don't worry to much about the finish, I can assure you that vision through the face shields used by firefighters is limited at best. Anyone else in the area won't be seeing much anyway.

I don't think it matters at all, the finish from my Sedgewick MB has always been good from two knives. It's normal for all faces of the finished work to be hand planed and/or sanded to remove the slight wave effect left by the machine.

I would recommend a six or preferably nine litre AFFF extinguisher sited as suggested on the escape route. Electrical fires are sorted by turning off the machine either at the socket or fuse board. The burning material is then safe to deal with. Google AFFF and you will find that it is also...

A traditional floor saw is about that length but the blade would be thicker and the teeth are formed on an edge which has about 50mm of curve. Yours sounds like a dovetail saw until you mention 6 tpi. Beats me but I would be interested to know.

Have a look at the blocks supporting the ends of the feed rollers. That's the part directly above the springs, they move up and down in a slot in the casting. It's possible that chippings have become packed beneath the blocks and are stopping the roller moving down to the proper place.

Have a look at dust spares. I always buy the 1340 high bags and turn the top down, that enables you to fill them to the top. Their carriage charges are a bit steep but buying 50 at a time makes them cheaper than most.

My system is to keep most of my timber in a 2.4M X 3.5 M purpose built garden shed with only small quantities in my quite small workshop. The top pic shows the high level rack on the garage/workshop wall. This has a few lengths conditioning but mainly serves to keep beading and long off cuts in...

My solution is similar to Doug B but made in steel box section - photo to follow when it's daylight !

Many of the woodworking magazines have gone to the wall or changed names, seemingly to win back readers. The Internet has loads of content some of which has been published and posted by the magazines. Page rates were slashed for contributors years back and as a result the mags were publishing...

Timber doors sliding in timber grooves won't be very satisfactory, and, as Mike says they will trap or stick. Try googling Chasmood track, that will show inexpensive ways of using plastic tracks or grooved items. I would favour hanging the doors from the alloy top track with the little wheels.

There are lots of things you can make for the home workshop that will serve you well and save money, think In terms of workbench ,saw bench ,shooting boards and templates of all kinds. This is not a bright idea but a massive waste of time and effort compared to installing the proper metal pipe...

My preference would be laminated glass, it can be cut while you wait rather than ordered in with a wait for the heat treating. Also the laminated glass will remain in place in one piece if you suffer a breakage.

My vote goes for Teak.

There are plenty of saws still in use with imperial size bores. You local saw doctor is a good place to enquire if non of the axi ones are right.

For hammer and chisel handles I raid a friends firewood pile for a few pieces of English ash. These are kept in my very warm workshop roof space to dry out ready for use. For saw handles I would tend to favour ( in addition to the ones already suggested) teak,Iroko or any of the mahoganies. I'm...