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It would help to know at least dimensions. If they are small pieces, clamp together (as already suggested) and plane. For the 2mm thick strips I make instruments from, I can probable do this so they vary by well under 0.2mm. If the pieces are much wider, that's a different challenge.

Really quite simple. £X per month for Y months, and then you have the option to buy the vehicle for £Z (stated up front). If it's worth more than £Z you consider buying it, if less you walk away and start again. The complication is that you can trade in your existing vehicle against a lower...

Ooh, I've found out who my reader is :D Using a bending iron I'd not go much thicker than 2mm, and then only in friendly woods. For the OP's plan, that's around 12 laminations. And it takes practice to get the bends uniform However, for shallow bends you could make a former, clamp one end...

Commiserations. My own buyer is still there (so far).

I use mainly hot hide glue for luthiery because it has advantages there - easy reversibility with heat and moisture (if eg I don't align a seam quite right), ease of repair, easy cleanup, near-invisible glue line (if I'm on song). Its biggest disadvantage is that for larger joints you have to...

I usually find oak easy to plane, so long as I take fairly fine shavings and resharpen regularly. Thick shavings are hard work though. Avoid anything with interlocking grain, like most African mahoganoids (sapele, utile, etc), which are always a challenge to plane. But if you find an old...

Nothing wrong, it's just that 2 coats is nowhere near enough for an even finish. Your coats are (or should be) very thin indeed. Rub very gently back with wire wool or fine abrasive (I like the latter better, but just a very light touch to remove any roughness) and apply more coats. I'd guess...

To go back to the original post, one of his problems is that his end grain chopping boards have ridges, and his bench plane feels as if it is skipping across those ridges. I have a similar issue planing down plates for guitars and ukuleles to under 2mm thickness, even though I'm not dealing...

From bitter experience, the hard edges of tearout do seem to stand out under finish. One possible answer is to use a cabinet scraper to scrape down to the bottom of the tearout, leaving a dip in the surface which feathers out smoothly to the flat surface either side. Then you could fill the dip...

If the last coat has just gone on then just give it back to your boy once it's hard enough not to mark. A few days is nowhere near enough. Kidnap it back in two weeks minimum, four would be better. Make it a father and son project, with him doing all the grunt work! Seriously, the finish must...

Essentially yes, if your finish layer is thick enough that you won't sand through. But if your first coat of varnish raised the grain, you might hit wood before you get to glass smooth. I dont know whether that particular varnish will polish up to a mirror shine, but a decent gleam should be...

I looked up the Blue Spruce mallet and it's handle is African Blackwood, not ebony. But even more endangered and seriously expensive even if you could find some. Rosewood is the alternative, and there is FSC rosewood around from plantations - dye it black or go with the look. And they will sell...

Well, I have a Quangsgeng no. 1, now no longer made I think. It gets a decent workout on musical instruments. It's particularly good at planing down sides to their final profile; these sides, including the linings are 3-4 mm thick. The important thing here is to plane the right angle in, so it...

I'm building another ukulele, and have just worked the top and back to near final thickness (these will be not much more than 1.5mm at the end). I thought you might like to see the koa, from Hawaii, as the grain patterns and colours can be quite dramatic. These are just planed surfaces with...

Might the confusion over blade thickness be between Stanley and Record? My Record no 80 has a thick blade, around 2mm, ground to around 30 degrees top and bottom. Here is the blade (marked Record) next to a standard card scraper, about twice as thick.

Or even put brass strips along the sides as well, matching the length of the brass plate on top. Hole completely hidden, no filler needed.

I'd buy a similar plane at a car boot and use that to cut the donor piece from. Almost certainly it's beech. Glue the insert on over size and then trim back to match the profile. Your big problem will be matching the colour and patina. I think you'll need to experiment with stains (on the...

Helpful advice all round, thanks folks. I see that the Imperial sizes include 533 mm width, and I was starting my tape measure at 100mm for accuracy - surely I couldn't have forgotten to subtract 100? If so, problem solved. The Travis Perkins website tells me their doors can be trimmed a...

I'm going to measure again (though I did measure each dimension twice, but ...). The damage is a triangular piece punched into the panel - I have the ability to extract that bit (maybe 100 mm x 60 mm), reinforce inside, reattach, fill etc. But that's hours to do properly! And it's hardboard I...

I'm selling my late parents' house, part of a retirement complex. One of the internal doors has a damaged panel, so I need to fix that. The door is 1972 X 632 mm, 6 panel, and made mainly of cardboard it seems. It's cheaper and easier to replace than mend, except this seems not to be a standard...