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30mm box has very little resistance in bending as the maximum distance from the neutral axis is only 15mm. Bending resistance increases with the cube of the vertical dimension, so moving from e.g. 30mm to 60mm you would increase your strength in bending 8-fold. I would move to a 50x25 profile...

You're probably much better off asking this question in dedicated forums - try http://www.mycncuk.com/ for starters. There are lots of kits out there if you want to go a DIY route, buying a finished machine can be more expensive. Lots of decisions you have to make on what is suited to your needs...

This is a good explanation of what I mean by the grain direction switching, and why it's important when machining. If you look at the accompanying video, the planing operation at 1:40 shows planing along an edge where the wood is switching grain direction along its length. This isn't always much...

I've never had laser cutting done, but I've made enquiries of colleagues in the past for various things I've cooked up and not yet built. I've heard good things of Emsea http://www.emsea-laser.com/ who are apparently very DIY-friendly and also Laser Master http://www.lasermaster.co.uk/ (who are...

Aside from the checks you've listed, I find one of the best tests is to offer it up against something like a nearby steel column to check for straightness/flatness. Also, have a look at the grain on the board and try to pick the bits that have the fibres aligned more like quartersawn than...

If one has a machine with pressed steel tables rather than cast, what would be the recommended route for flattening them? As I don't think scraping is suitable for steel surfaces.

Sounds like what you need is an offset baseplate. Trend sell them, or you can get a piece of Ply/MDF/Perspex/whatever and make one yourself. Instead of cutting out a round plate, on one side extend it out further by about 6-8", tapering down, and mount a handle on that end. You place this part...

I use a straight edge and a fractional baseplate (basically trend's trenching baseplate) with 0.5-4mm graduations. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

I think you have the decimal point in the wrong place. Ebay shows 2m length for £30 (exhaust tubes). Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Try IDS - that's where I got the Formica I used for my router table and they let me collect rather than paying the postage (I assume you are only seeking the laminate and not the complete worktop style stuff?) Alternatives to try are Saxon Laminates or Timbnets.

+1 for Liberon wax. Avoid things with silicone in them, they get absorbed by bare wood and screw up your finishes.

How are you finding the alignment of the sliding beam? I looked at this saw before buying mine (a Record TS250-RS), not really in the same league but I'm a hobby woodworker with limited space and I need to be able to move the machine around the workshop. I think this saw has a support leg for...

I built a bench-top router table recently, and have just finished the fence and also a sliding fence carriage. Details are in this post: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post751468.html#p751468

I've now completed the fence and sliding fence for the table. First, the sliding fence. This is an idea I picked up from Bill Hylton's "An Ultimate Guide to the Router Table". In it, he explains the dynamics of cutting on the router table - when you are making a cut, the workpiece is pushed to...

I think you will find buying your own machine quickly pays for itself compared to getting a timber merchant to prepare your stock for you, plus your results should be better. Avoid buying PAR stuff that's bought in by the merchants pre-prepared. I bought a second hand 10" P/T off the...

Grub screws in the corners of the inserts will enable you to level the plate.

I have that router, I've never tried the reducer though. Have you checked with a micrometer if the shank is undersize? Assuming it isn't, you will either need to go tighter or use an adaptor. Axminster do a 1/2" collet extension which uses Er20 collets, these work over a 1mm range so chuck in...

Here's mine: https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/bench-top-router-table-t66404.html I cut the parts for my static fence and cross-cut fence last weekend. When I've assembled them I'll add the details to the thread.

Router and a trammel for the flat ring, then router and a round-over bit to put a round on the cross-section. Should be a pretty quick operation?

Edited my post when I realised that, but you beat me to it.