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I'm gradually refurbishing the bits and pieces that came with my ancient Barnes lathe and I thought some readers might like to see this 1/2" capacity drill chuck made by the Union Mfg. Co. New Britain, Connecticut (Patented June 27. 1899). It was very rusty so I got to work on it using an angle...

I bought one shortly before the price was reduced :( I am quite pleased with it so far. Here is a photo of it fitted to my 1960's Arundel lathe, using an adaptor I made (as described in the General Metalworking forum).

Yes, surprising things can be discovered (or at least surprising to a non trained machinist such as me). Whilst I was searching for an answer to Andy’s question about the tailstock hole I found Barnes advertising material that said their lathes were capable of ball turning but didn’t explain...

Thanks for your replies, guys. I plan to keep the saws as part of my "second division" toolkit that lives in the garage. Auntie had quite a reasonable set of DIY tools, including hammers, screwdrivers, pliers, wire cutters, chisels, a Surform, spanners, a lino knife and even a glass cutter...

Two saws that belonged to my wife's elderly maiden aunt: - the Spear and Jackson had little rust and has cleaned up almost like new, - the Sandvik was rustier but has cleaned up fairly well. Does anyone know the age of these saws? I was pleased to receive them and they cut well but I prefer...

The "clamp boss" and the "mystery hole boss" are not the same size so I don't think BRYAN's suggestion is correct.

It works as a chuck key holder, as suggested by chipmunk above, but I feel that was not the intention :)

'Sorry, I don't have a clue either. The hole in my tailstock is 1/4" diameter and 3/4" deep. It might be worth sending a query to [email protected]

Thanks charvercarver, The bottom two gouges in the photo were incannel when I bought them and I have left them in the same style. I have not changed the other three to incannel - the shiny areas are just where I have removed some pitting. Not a very clear photo I'm afraid - I used my mobile...

Thanks for your replies guys and thanks for the Greaves info. TT. It's rather sad to think of these makers of excellent tools now gone. Here are the gouges cleaned up with their new handles.

It's 3/8" BSW. Here is a pic of a replacement I made for a worn screw.

Well done Andy. It's a pleasure to see how you are getting on. I look forward to seeing your next ingenious application.

Thanks Dave. The spindle has a projecting key that engages with slots in the gear wheels. I made the handle with a similar slot.

Well done - I think that is a big improvement. The Veritas handle doesn't look right to me.

Today I found a bit of well seasoned cherry branch wood and fitted it to my chisel with a leather washer (without splitting this time :) ). Then I planed it to an "oval" shape.

Toby, thanks for describing your method - I did it in a very similar way but obviously didn't make the hole quite big enough. I think it is a fine line between making it too tight and too sloppy. The wood was an offcut of seasoned iroko. I'll try again over the weekend taking more care...

Nice handle and mallet, Toby :) How did you get a good fit for the tang of the chisel in the handle? I made a handle for the mortice chisel I bought last Saturday but I made the hole too tight and the handle split when I tapped it onto the tang - so I'll have to start again :(

Chris, Any chance of a photo or two? That would make it easier to understand your problem.

I have made this mandrel handle following the suggestion by BB. The turning was mainly done by hand using a 1/2" HSS woodturning scraper, running at about 700 rpm. Andy, I think this technique would work well for you for making a permanent replacement for your broken handle.

Bought this morning for £10 the lot: - Mortice chisel, 3/8", R. Mather & Son, Sheffield. Handle split. - Gouge, 1", sweep No. 8, Isaac Greaves. Split handle. - Gouge, 5/8", sweep No. 7, Tyzack & Son, 545? Old St. EC. - Gouge, 5/8", sweep No. 9, Tyzack & Son, 545? Old St. EC. Split handle. -...