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Jimi, Thanks for your encouragement. Padauk is funny stuff - when newly cut it is bright orange but turns a rich dark red with time. There is a distinctive smell when you cut it andthe dust stains clothes and I suspect it is bad to breathe. Pete, Thanks for the tips about the charcoal and...

PS. I got the shape from Jim Kingshott's design but adapted it to suit my front handle style.

Thanks to all for the kind comments. In answer to the questions: - Yes, I plan to use padauk for the wooden parts to match my other planes. - I plan to make the blade of O1 steel. I'll have to find a way of heating it to red heat for hardening. I intend to make all the metal parts. - Yes...

Some readers may remember my Infill Smoothing Plane Project and Small Router Plane Project from last year. Well, I haven’t been entirely idle this year but my work is taking me away from home quite a bit and I haven’t been able to do as much woodwork and metalwork as I would have liked...

Looking good, Jim. I think the bold grain suits the bold style of Richard's metalwork.

It can be done :)

Thanks Toby, For the chisel, gouges, blades and lever cap.I started by soaking in vinegar overnight - that removed a lot of the rust but left some of it in pitting and a rather dull finish. Then I set to work with a twist knot cup brush in an angle grinder. For the spokeshave I didn't soak in...

I cleaned the handle with white spirit, meths, turpentine, vinegar, cellulose thinner - but not necessarily in that order. It had some horrid thick brown lacquer in places and I resorted to those liquids and wire wool and scraping tools to remove it.

No - it was brass. It was just the dirt that made it look like steel :)

De-rusting complete. Now for some handle making. I need to find a suitable bit of wood for a handle of the larger saw. I'm wondering about using yew - might that be suitable?

I bought the following today for £30: - Back saw, 14”, rip teeth, 9 TPI, Moulson Brothers MB Sheffield cast steel, brass back, teeth condition good, lower part of handle crudely held together with a screw and lower horn missing, rusty but not badly pitted. - Dovetail saw, 8”, rip teeth, 13 TPI...

Gauge plate is 01 steel, delivered in the annealed state so you can saw and drill it. It is hardened by heating to red heat then plunging into oil and stirred about to get even cooling. I believe any oil will do - you need to do this outside as there will be smoke and a filthy smell, and it...

+1 Yes Jamie, I have noted the address and will send the parts tomorrow so please edit your post as Pete suggests.

Jim, I'm following this with great interest. I too think a lever cap would be best but I'm sure whatever you come up will look great. I'm very eager to see photos of the finished article.

Yes, I can post - PM sent.

A neat job, Toby. Well done.

I have a broken Ferm router. You would be welcome to have its nut and collets FOC. I think the collets are 6mm, 1/4" and 8mm.

Best of luck, Toby. You have lots of enthusiasm and I think you will be a quick learner.

I was very shocked and saddened at this news. I never met Richard - I only knew him from his interesting, enthusiastic and knowledgeable contributions to this forum. He gave me much useful advice and encouragement in my plane making efforts. I am very sorry for your loss. Richard Hughes

Here is a photo of my one which may be useful for comparison.